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Only to report I received extra parts from another FSJ owner, for dash cluster, and the base looks much better than my AZ desert fried one that turns to powder when touched.
Was planning to work this weekend, to pull starter and get it lubed up, then rework dash cluster and troubleshoot fuel gauge, but somehow messed up my left shoulder about mid week.
Taking the weekend off, and plan to get back at it next weekend, bad shoulder or not
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Awesome! I have to rebuild a spare starter for mine (actually I'm pretty sure it's just slow because it's full of oil), as this one has had trouble engaging a few times, and it's supposed to be getting cold here, and I am NOT changing a starter in the parking lot when it's -20 degrees. Even at 40 I don't think I'd like doing it in a parking lot.
So are you thinking bad wire, bad sending unit, or that the tank isn't grounding (for the fuel gauge)? Or that the gauge somehow isn't getting power?
Tore into it today, and when checked some weeks back, I had ohms reading when sender was cleaned, verified after install in the tank, and verified after install of tank & skid to the frame.
Tank is grounded.
Gauge verified good on bench test when working on dash cluster.
Had cluster out again today, and checked for ohms on "L" terminal (Pink wire) of plug in harness to back of circuit board, and no reading there.
Should have been, as gauge works with pink wire coming direct from sender to gauge, but appears a disconnect somewhere in the path between the two.
Will trace it and find where the issue is, as most likely (I think) at the bulkhead, but we know could be anywhere in between.
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Well folks......I went to take my gauge cluster out again, to see about rebuilding a bit more, after getting a box of extra parts from another gracious FSJ owner.
While removing my cluster, the main body of the cluster that mounts the gauge cluster to the truck separated from the gauges, dropping what screws I could get to hold last time down in the dash.
Plastic is so dry and rotted it finally gave up completely.....UGH!
So.....I dive into the box of parts, to glean through and find the one part I hope is useable, the cluster base.
After inspecting the gifted part, sadly it is on its way to similar condition mine is currently in, and unable to use it.
I was able to use other pieces/parts in the gifted box, but now down to needing a good base again, if anyone else has one they do not need.
If I had the funds, I would go with a new Dakota brand replacement, but such is not the case.
Still relying on "the kindness of strangers", as it has been said, and really appreciate any help!
cracked screw holes!... may be refill with some plastic epoxy, then drill pilot holes.
or melt some abs into the hole, soften abs with acetone to make a paste. I have done it as a test with the taillights , red taillight bits. Not too sure about the dash type of plastic ... thinking while writing... there is some PVC repair in a tube, that works wonder on motorcycle seat for light tears... VLP
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
Really good suggestion, and sounds like it could work, but afraid the plastic in mine might be too far gone.
The pieces that came out near turned to powder they were so dry, but who knows, still might be enough there to take the glue and work.
Here is another idea from IFSJ I am going to try-
"Yes, mostly the screw holes are gone and literally turned to near powder when the pieces came out.
I like the idea of glueing small wood dowels to what remains, and drill pilot holes to receive the screws.
Dremel will easily clean up the old rotten areas, to prep for fixing.
Maybe glue some thin wood laminate on the inside flat areas too for reinforcement.
Great idea, will give it a try, and report back with pics
Heep-J4000 wrote:Looking at the picture with the backside of the gauge cluster all the screw holes are busted , that's what you mean or is there more?
I had the same with the cluster in my 73 j4000 years ago , and probably a lot of others do have this same issue!?
To repair it I filled the worn-out holes with 2k glue and after drying drilled new small holes to put it together.
A solution for your cluster could be that you glue small pieces of soft wood on the inside were the original holes are broke away and drill a small pilot hole in all for easy putting the screws back in.
Or you get some very small diameter threaded rod and glue that in the existing screw holes and put things back together with small nuts.
"
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), Edelbrock clone 1406, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
YES bad wires are the worst. I haven't had much trouble on mine <yet> as I usually break them when I take them off , but on my dad's truck, it ran fine after we got the heads done, then the next couple of times we drove it, it was giving us fits with backfires out the exhaust. Finally we were checking the plugs, and low and behold one of the wires was shorting out on the header Runs great since we swapped the bad wires out