Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
I have fabricated a winch mount to fit into a front mounted towing receiver. The receiver mounts to the front crossmember and is supported to the pass side frame. That all looks good and I think will work fine. But I would also like a tow hook or anchor point in case I need to use a snatch block but there are few choices for mounting one. Is there any reason that I cannot include a tow hook on the actual winch mount, about 4 inches from the fairlead, under the winch mounting plate? I know I can install it there, but could this present any problems when winching? This is new territory for me.
'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift
Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
Reading your post, it sounds like you don't have a frame tie-in on the driver side? The front cross member is not very strong. Most winch bumpers tie into the frame, and not the cross member. If using the cross member, it needs additional frame tie-ins, and I would probably add material to the front and back of it.
As for a snatch block, after market bumpers tend to have recovery points integrated into them. And as the bumper ties into the frame, the recovery points are also. Its important to remember that a snatch block effectively doubles the pulling power of the winch. So when placing the recovery point, you don't want it attached to the receiver mount that the winch is using. As that would double the load on your receiver mount. I would suggest adding your recovery hooks to the frame. And since the shackle mounts are right under the frame, you would probably need to mount them along the side of the frame. But they would only be accessible if you don't have a bumper mounted up.
If that front cross member is really re-enforced, you could put the hooks on the underside of the crossmember.
But as noted before, picts are worth a thousand words if you can show us what you have going.
Pictures would help but I think I get what you are saying. I’d weld something like this to the bottom of the passenger frame rail. I have one of these on each side of my hidden winch mount. Lots of options available for equipment.
No photos yet because the winch mounting plate is getting powder coated.
Stuka - I hear you on the strength of the front crossmember. The steering box made a driver's side brace more challenging but I would feel much better about more support. I had two welders approve of my setup for "simple" winching, but not buried in 10 inches of mud. With this Cherokee I intend to do nothing more than light wheeling - but sh*t happens. As for the snatch block I was thinking more of "halving" the tension on the rope but you made me realize I am also potentially doubling the capacity of the winch. That point clearly answered my original question.
Yeller - those hooks would work. My problem is anchor points are above the bumper height. But I just need to weld in a bracket to lower the position of the hook. You got me thinking.
Winching is rare, especially with light wheeling. (A bit of an exception is if you go wheeling alone a lot, something I do not recommend). You might be overthinking this a bit. The snatch blocks are useful when you are really stuck (direct pull) or if you are winching at an angle and need to attach one to a tree or large boulder.
will e wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 5:37 am
Winching is rare, especially with light wheeling. (A bit of an exception is if you go wheeling alone a lot, something I do not recommend). You might be overthinking this a bit. The snatch blocks are useful when you are really stuck (direct pull) or if you are winching at an angle and need to attach one to a tree or large boulder.
I agree. To me it's a little extra insurance. I don't think I will ever need it but a decent winch can last a long time and span several vehicles if it is cared for. Plus, I got a great deal on it so I didn't think it was frivolous spending. But I want to mount it properly and use it correctly.
Yeller wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 6:28 am
There is probably enough offset in the hook to clear the bumper, but if not a spacer is easy enough. A snatch block does help spread the load out.
The issue he has is the location of the hook in your photo is right where the front spring mount is. There really isn't any room to have a hook in that area, except along the outside of the frame, but then its behind the bumper.
Scotty54 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 5:23 am
No photos yet because the winch mounting plate is getting powder coated.
Scotty54 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 04, 2023 5:23 am
Stuka - I hear you on the strength of the front crossmember. The steering box made a driver's side brace more challenging but I would feel much better about more support. I had two welders approve of my setup for "simple" winching, but not buried in 10 inches of mud. With this Cherokee I intend to do nothing more than light wheeling - but sh*t happens. As for the snatch block I was thinking more of "halving" the tension on the rope but you made me realize I am also potentially doubling the capacity of the winch. That point clearly answered my original question.
Most after market bumpers I have had/seen have the braces go along the outside of the frame. They will have a plate that goes from the bumper, along the frame for about a foot or so. Many will use the steering box bolts as another connection point. This acts as the frame tie-in.