The factory Jeep tank will disappoint you due to no internal baffles. I did the 2 door S-10 Blazer tank from 97. It is like it is made to fit. Then use the 96 4 door Blazer sending unit and pump. It'll work with the 86-91 Jeep gauge There is a guy on the FB group that makes fuel fill hoses to adapt to the tank from the Jeep fill port.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am -inline walboro 255 fuel pump (UNLESS the gas tank from the tahoe fits the jeep, in which case i'll just transfer the entire fuel system. i suspect that it's too wide, but have not confirmed yet)
Keep the Jeep stuff from the catalytic area-back. The issue is going to be using the Tahoe stuff. The way the down pipes angle, they're gonna need to most likely be modified. You'll have to fab up a Y-Pipe. It's gonna be tight above that front driveshaft. Nothing out there has been discovered to just "fit".
Winner winner, chicken dinner.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am i might just buy a brand new jeep rad that fits this thing, and adapt an e fan shroud to it at some point
Youtube. Search for a channel called 'comfort in discomfort'bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am -climate control will come later however i need to get the windows working (first step in any grand wagoneer project, it seems)
Flyin' iron all the way!bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am i havent yet bought the motor mounts, but i was looking at flyin' iron, and novak. does anyone have a preference between those two? personally i like the flyin' iron fab design better, but would certainly be open to feedback from others. i will probably just fab some bracketry to adapt the 4l60e to the stock grand wagoneer crossmember.
That 243 looks to be a slip yoke style. The 229 is a fixed yoke, so definitely won't work even if they could mate together.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 7:08 pm went and snagged an NP243 and control module this morning. This will allow me to use an electronic/push button transfer case, but not have full time 4wd or have to deal with all the abs speed sensors that would prohibit the use of the np246.
question - the NP243 has a 32 spline rear output shaft. The NP229 also has a 32 spline rear output (to the best of my knowledge). For some reason, the yoke from the NP229 does not fit on the NP243. It will engage the very tip of the splines, but will not go any further. What gives?
wow, thank you kindly for the detailed feedback. this is really helpful.dodgerammit wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 9:26 pm First off, Hello and welcome to the asylum!
Fellow LS swapper here. Like you, am comfortable with them (owned a 4th gen TransAm WS6 for 14 years), so it was a no brainer when the time came.
I'll make a few suggestions here:The factory Jeep tank will disappoint you due to no internal baffles. I did the 2 door S-10 Blazer tank from 97. It is like it is made to fit. Then use the 96 4 door Blazer sending unit and pump. It'll work with the 86-91 Jeep gauge There is a guy on the FB group that makes fuel fill hoses to adapt to the tank from the Jeep fill port.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am -inline walboro 255 fuel pump (UNLESS the gas tank from the tahoe fits the jeep, in which case i'll just transfer the entire fuel system. i suspect that it's too wide, but have not confirmed yet)
IMO, it is money WELL spent.
Keep the Jeep stuff from the catalytic area-back. The issue is going to be using the Tahoe stuff. The way the down pipes angle, they're gonna need to most likely be modified. You'll have to fab up a Y-Pipe. It's gonna be tight above that front driveshaft. Nothing out there has been discovered to just "fit".
Winner winner, chicken dinner.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am i might just buy a brand new jeep rad that fits this thing, and adapt an e fan shroud to it at some point
In fact, I have a summit dual fan setup that perfectly fit the factory radiator for the Jeep (and the steam port adapter for the upper radiator hose) if you're interested. BJ's copper radiator too that has been cleaned and had the top tank rebrazed within the last year. It needs the bracket on one side resoldered to it. Lemme know if you're interested. I'll make you a deal to get it out of my way and under the hood for someone who can use it.
Youtube. Search for a channel called 'comfort in discomfort'bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am -climate control will come later however i need to get the windows working (first step in any grand wagoneer project, it seems)
Flyin' iron all the way!bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:14 am i havent yet bought the motor mounts, but i was looking at flyin' iron, and novak. does anyone have a preference between those two? personally i like the flyin' iron fab design better, but would certainly be open to feedback from others. i will probably just fab some bracketry to adapt the 4l60e to the stock grand wagoneer crossmember.
once again, appreciate the feedback. my initial thought was to do a "hack n tap" mod on the NP243, and keep the slip in the drive shaft as it was set up from stock. So i figured that if the yoke from the NP229 fit, maybe that was a good start. But then i realized, it wouldn't work properly anyways because it needs to bottom out so that it can't move forward or backwards once its bolted to the transfer case.dodgerammit wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 9:34 pmThat 243 looks to be a slip yoke style. The 229 is a fixed yoke, so definitely won't work even if they could mate together.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 7:08 pm went and snagged an NP243 and control module this morning. This will allow me to use an electronic/push button transfer case, but not have full time 4wd or have to deal with all the abs speed sensors that would prohibit the use of the np246.
question - the NP243 has a 32 spline rear output shaft. The NP229 also has a 32 spline rear output (to the best of my knowledge). For some reason, the yoke from the NP229 does not fit on the NP243. It will engage the very tip of the splines, but will not go any further. What gives?
If you're not lifting the jeep over 4" or wheeling it much, the slip will be fine. I vote calling up Tom Woods once everything is installed and you can measure the length you need for driveshafts.
Or, if the case from the Tahoe is the same output, you could use a local driveline shop to adapt the case side of the Tahoe's rear driveshaft to the pinion side of the Jeep shaft (provided the diameters work).
Correct. My thoughts on the spare is this. Tire will go flat at worst possible time (rain or snow), then I'll get even more wet/angry about having to pull tire from under Jeep. I got lucky and snagged one of rstep's last interior mounts (mounts spare similar to the way the ZJ Grand Cherokees mounted). I can easily swap out a tire if needed now (and I have already had to). If you're decent at welding, it wouldn't be hard to create something similar. I'm pretty sure you could find a spare tire circle with the correct lug pattern online and fab up the rest.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 5:27 am
as for the gas tank - is the s10 tank the one that goes into the spare tire area? i believe i have heard of this before. initially i wanted to avoid that, largely because this waggy will spend most of its time on the road, and a spare tire is not a terrible thing to have but, if the waggy tank ends up being unworkable, it sounds like this would be a much better option. i also plan to measure the tahoe's gas tank, although i'm about 75% sure its gonna be too wide to fit where the jeep one goes.
I used the truck manifolds. They fit fine. The issue is the down pipe (O2 section) that attaches. You'll have to get creative on the driver's side to make it work. Not super hard, but will involve some custom bending. It is completely due to the driveshaft being right there.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 5:27 am we'll see how the exhaust goes, i'm at least going to try and make the truck manifolds work. i also have a set of block huggers hanging around that will probably work as well, they're just a little bit more annoying because they don't dump at a place or angle that makes it easy to fab everything behind them.
If it's going to be a challenge, just let me know if you want my original setup. Bolts in, worked with the LS just fine, and I'll let it go stoopid cheap. I now have an aluminum crossflow.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 5:27 am i'm still tosses up about the radiator at the moment, i know the jeep stuff will fit but its really expensive! My other LS swap (at the moment, haha) is a 1998 volvo v90 station wagon, and the radiator from it is both cheaper, and larger, and it very nearly fits in the jeep!! i am going to continue researching options regarding this, but if the hood closes with the v90 radiator, that might go in the jeep for keeps.
hmm, seems like i need to sit down and read thru your thread should be fun!!dodgerammit wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 9:14 amCorrect. My thoughts on the spare is this. Tire will go flat at worst possible time (rain or snow), then I'll get even more wet/angry about having to pull tire from under Jeep. I got lucky and snagged one of rstep's last interior mounts (mounts spare similar to the way the ZJ Grand Cherokees mounted). I can easily swap out a tire if needed now (and I have already had to). If you're decent at welding, it wouldn't be hard to create something similar. I'm pretty sure you could find a spare tire circle with the correct lug pattern online and fab up the rest.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 5:27 am
as for the gas tank - is the s10 tank the one that goes into the spare tire area? i believe i have heard of this before. initially i wanted to avoid that, largely because this waggy will spend most of its time on the road, and a spare tire is not a terrible thing to have but, if the waggy tank ends up being unworkable, it sounds like this would be a much better option. i also plan to measure the tahoe's gas tank, although i'm about 75% sure its gonna be too wide to fit where the jeep one goes.
I used the truck manifolds. They fit fine. The issue is the down pipe (O2 section) that attaches. You'll have to get creative on the driver's side to make it work. Not super hard, but will involve some custom bending. It is completely due to the driveshaft being right there.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 5:27 am we'll see how the exhaust goes, i'm at least going to try and make the truck manifolds work. i also have a set of block huggers hanging around that will probably work as well, they're just a little bit more annoying because they don't dump at a place or angle that makes it easy to fab everything behind them.
If it's going to be a challenge, just let me know if you want my original setup. Bolts in, worked with the LS just fine, and I'll let it go stoopid cheap. I now have an aluminum crossflow.bobcratchet555 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 5:27 am i'm still tosses up about the radiator at the moment, i know the jeep stuff will fit but its really expensive! My other LS swap (at the moment, haha) is a 1998 volvo v90 station wagon, and the radiator from it is both cheaper, and larger, and it very nearly fits in the jeep!! i am going to continue researching options regarding this, but if the hood closes with the v90 radiator, that might go in the jeep for keeps.
You can check my thread starting on page 5 and see the original radiator setup. You'll also later see where it got damaged on a trip, repaired at a shop, and cleaned up.
thanks, that makes sense.