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Mounting the Painless harness fuse block is a bit of a chore, one big issue I'm having is that I currently have a big hole where the original fuse block sat. The Painless fuse block wont sit in the same spot so I'm looking for a grommet about 2 3/4 by 2 3/4. Have any of you guys bought or made one?
Srdayflyer wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 5:29 pm
i made one and used hi-temp rtv to seal it,so you dont have a chance of carbon monoxide , as you cant smell it and it will over power you quickly
How did you make the grommet itself? Just a big chunk of rubber?
If I no longer had a bulkhead connector for the firewall penetration, I would look to older cars and trucks for something I could make work. These older cars typically have the dash and under-hood as one big harness, with no bulkhead connector. I would also look to the more popular brands, like this - https://www.lmctruck.com/1948-56-fords/ ... l-grommets You could possibly use the firewall grommet for a '48-52 with its retainer. Support for Fords and Chevys will be much better than anything Jeep.
Then I would reshape the original firewall penetration to match the grommet. A piece of sheet steel with the right sized hole could be screwed or pop riveted to the firewall, making a custom fit.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
i just fabricated a patch panel to match the hole from the OEM bulkhead connector cut and fitted as required to match the newer wiring harnass and sealed with high temp RTV
I should start off by saying I was a bit dumb and was asking for the wrong thing. What I really need at the moment is to seal the hole the old fuse block has left. I should have been more clear, my plan now is to seal it with a piece of rubber and then run the wires through by drilling a hole through it, or weld a piece of aluminum and then drill a hole for a grommet to sit in that addition.
You were correct - it's just a matter of using the right names for what you are replacing.
The original harness has a big plug and socket called the bulkhead connector. The original fuse panel is part of the bulkhead connector and located under the dash. Remove the bulkhead connector and you remove the fuse panel with it. When removed, it leaves a mostly rectangular hole that's bigger than what you'll need for your Painless harness to pass through.
Are we on the same wavelength?
Kinda think the Ford grommet that I pointed to (40-1110) would be better than some random piece of rubber or a generic grommet. It would be held in place with the clamp shown (40-1180). I think you have the right idea with the aluminum part to reshape the bulkhead connector hole, though I would use steel rather than a dissimilar metal like aluminum. No need to weld; just cut it oversize and screw it down with the existing threaded holes.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
tgreese wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2024 2:41 pm
You were correct - it's just a matter of using the right names for what you are replacing.
The original harness has a big plug and socket called the bulkhead connector. The original fuse panel is part of the bulkhead connector and located under the dash. Remove the bulkhead connector and you remove the fuse panel with it. When removed, it leaves a mostly rectangular hole that's bigger than what you'll need for your Painless harness to pass through.
Are we on the same wavelength?
Kinda think the Ford grommet that I pointed to (40-1110) would be better than some random piece of rubber or a generic grommet. It would be held in place with the clamp shown (40-1180). I think you have the right idea with the aluminum part to reshape the bulkhead connector hole, though I would use steel rather than a dissimilar metal like aluminum. No need to weld; just cut it oversize and screw it down with the existing threaded holes.
We're on the same wavelength now. Thank you for helping me sort that out, I'll order the grommet and clamp and get that installed and see how it goes.