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My old timing cover is leaking at the plug on top of the oil pump housing, so I bought a new kit from Bulltear. Also going to install a DUI distributor and a new cam-gear at the same time. For the lower part of the cover, I assume the oil pan needs to be dropped a bit. What's the best way to seal it back up? Do I also need to install a new pan-gasket or can I let it ride?
I'm a complete newbie to AMC 360's, so learning a lot as I go and this forum's assistance has been invaluable.
The procedure is covered in the TSM. If there are extra steps involved that a dealership technician would need to know about, they will list them there. Won't teach you to work on cars though. Page 9-156. Free to read and download at the Tom Collins site. https://oljeep.com/
TSM.png
No need to drop the oil pan. If you look at the picture of the gasket set for timing cover you will see the parts of the oil pan seal you need to replace. The TSM covers this. https://www.rockauto.com/info/6/SFL_TCS ... 04_TOP.jpg
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Thanks, Tim. I have the FSM, but as with any job, hearing from someone that's done the work is always beneficial before starting something that you are unfamiliar with. I appreciate your input.
Won't teach you to work on cars though.
Apologies if I came off as a complete noob when it comes to working on cars. I think my 30 years of turning wrenches, ASE creds, and iCar platinum certification has gotten me pretty far. My current employer at the shop would also vouch for me, as one of two full-time mechanics.
ASE and iCar's workflows both start with "know the job". A good tech's first step in any repair is research and education and I am far too old and too experienced to think I know it all. That sort of mindset can get very expensive, very quickly. I'll never fault someone for asking for input or assistance. I will ding someone for not doing so if they should have.
Thanks again for your continued assistance as I learn more about these AMC/Jeep vehicles.
Sorry if my reply came off curt or dismissive. The TSM is pretty good for this kind of thing; they get thicker and more detailed as the years go by. The '89 book even gives instructions depending on the type of gasket sealer you will use (Perm #2 or RTV). Maybe the techs were expected to cover increasingly more platforms, or maybe they were getting less and less competent as years passed ... can only speculate why the books improved.
Yeah, takes a while for the regulars to get to know new people, I suppose. No reflection on you. I'm often guilty of writing too much, I suppose. Comes easy to me.
A common complaint that the factory books don't explain enough ... well yeah, their audience is the dealership employees (parts and service) and some familiarity is assumed. Thought I would mention that.
Confession - I have not done this job - seen it done when I worked at a dealership - but I know that you cut the oil pan gasket off and use the gasket pieces in the gasket set. I'd also guess the usual issues with the bolts apply here. I'd probably buy a heat induction tool since it's within my means.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Take pictures before you start and a couple of short videos too. And more pictures/video as you go along.
As you remove each timing cover bolt place it into the corresponding hole in the new cover on the bench.
When you have the old cover off, move the bolts to the old cover. This will greatly help avoid confusion on where each bolt goes.
I would suggest pulling the pan. The chance of getting a seal after lower it enough to get the timing cover off is next to zero.
I always had the best luck using the single piece blue rubber gasket. And it will give you a good chance to clean any gunk out of the pan and inspect the cylinders from below.
Be sure to pack the oil pump full of petroleum jelly. It won't pull oil up if it isn't primed.