I don't *think* so. Looking at the wiring diagrams on Oljeep.com doesn't show any relays and AFAIK none have been added.
I understand, so basically the same thing as testing for leakage at the battery terminal except the battery is fully hooked up and I set the meter between each wire and its connection. Easy enough, I'll do that today and see what it showstgreese wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 9:47 am Re testing each alternator wire -
You've already tested the charge wire, I presume. First I'd unplug the small wires and see if the drain changes through the charge wire. Then I'd make jumper wires so I could put my meter between the plug and the alternator. I'd likely use clip leads (carefully).
I'd comment that I've had alternators that were leaky and drained the battery. Looking at the circuit diagram for the alternator in the TSM, half of the bridge is always blocking the battery connection. There is a capacitor across the bridge that could go leaky. I suppose one of the bridge diodes could go partly or fully shorted and leak, but that would change when you change the alternator. The sense wire is always high, and there is only high resistance to block that. Not 200ma though, unless something is wrong in the regulator.
Funny, I thought about that as a solution as well. Right now I've just been removing the red and yellow wires from the solenoid when I park it but having a switch inside would be much easier. The light as a reminder is a nice touch too! Hopefully one of us can figure it out soon.devildog80 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 9:46 am Wellllllll.......I have the same issue on my '84 GW, went through everything & more like you did, never found the issue. So.....wired in a disconnect switch off battery ground, so I can completely shut down all power when truck is off. When I did this, I ran another ground to the body, and found my dome light (some gauge cluster lights, rear cargo light too) actually worked and thought this was the draw, but shut the dome light off and still have the draw.....somewhere.
I am sure we will both find the source someday, in our respective rigs, but until then this is my temporary solution to maintain my battery and be able to drive the truck.
New ground connector on battery, with red cable as a ground (friend donated so used what I had on hand) that connects to new cutoff switch in the cab.
20240422_092946 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr
Drilled a hole through floor, to mount cutoff switch in cab. Labeled off as tank 1, and on as tank 2.
20240422_092814 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr
I had some semi truck battery cables 12 ft long in my rig as extra parts when I got it, so used one of these for the ground back to the block but on drivers side now, from cutoff switch (bigger grayish colored cable in pic). Short black cable is new ground to body I added, and as said above found I have more interior lights now working, than I had before adding this. The other black (RED) cable is feed direct off battery ground.
20230820_121242 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr
The red light temporarily zipped to the steering wheel tilt stem, comes on when I turn my disconnect switch on, to run the truck. Visual reminder for me to kill power when shutting truck off, so battery does not run down.
20240422_092832 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr
I made some progress on this and I'm curious to see if it helps you too. When I first started fixing up the jeep I welded a bolt to the body and one to the frame and tied all my grounds to those. The engine to body, body to frame, and negative battery cable all went to the same bolt along with cleaning up other grounds.devildog80 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 10:46 am I spend weeks, across 4 different forums, internet searches, articles read, videos watched, and went trough so many checks that had no good results with my situation. I know it is a band-aid fix for now, but moved on and have the truck running/driving/getting smiles per mile, and not just sitting in the driveway tore up chasing unknown electrical issues. Another day for sure, as I still have much to do, and might resolve itself when other electrical issues are buttoned up, or troubles found and repaired.
And kudos to all of the folks who assisted/got frustrated with me when I went through this just last year, as they are professional in their advice, so try to follow their lead carefully. Read the advice, read it again, and then read it again, as I missed so much reading it the first time, and spent a lot of time re-reading information 2-3-4 times more while looking at my wiring, to get it to finally sink in.
Super helpful for sure, to have so much shared knowledge, and wish I could thank each of those people personally for putting up with me through my process.
Good luck
This looks like a great easy option for this. How long have you had yours installed? You've been happy with it?Srdayflyer wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 11:34 pm https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Disconnec ... 146&sr=8-5
oops oldtimers got me its a 250amp relay, and the price was bidenomiced its now 20.00 thx ,joe