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I'm not sure but I believe I've been here before. But that was a looonnnng time ago.
However, I met one of your members (GrandWag85) at the KOA in Ouray this year.
The club I'm in was gathering about the time the FSJ and Toyota FJ's were pulling out when I met GrandWag85.
He was kind enough to take some time to talk to me about his J10 that I was admiring and he invited me to post on the forum.
I've got a 79 CJ5 (stock with factory 304) and a 06 TJ unlimited Rubicon (slightly modded) but I'm pretty sure I need to spend some time here on this forum....
And here's why.......
Some 15 years ago I purchased an 82 J10 Pioneer with a straight 6 and 4 speed manual. The truck was at my dad's in Tennessee and I live in Michigan so the truck has set for a long time with little or no attention. (I know, My bad).
This year while wheeling at Windrock in Oliver Springs Tn. my friends in the Jeep club found out about the J10 and volunteered a truck and trailer and helped me move it to Michigan (awesome friends). There's a lot of work to do but first order of business is to get it running. The last time I drove it the engine was not in good shape. So I'm seriously considering getting a new one and I'm pretty certain there's a nutter bypass in it's future. 10 years ago I had already started changing out the carb with a motorcraft but there's still a lot of questions. Like this box on the driver side fender well that "melting".........
So begins my next Jeep journey....Any advice and/or suggestions are most welcome.
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You do need full 12VDC to the HEI dist. The original system is reduced with a resistor in the wiring. I just put a relay to the original wire and from the battery to the dist.
Weird! Usually that's inside the cab. Someone must have taken the truck where emission testing was required, like CA. Keep the black fuel vapor cannister, swap to a high flow cat and the AIR rubbish can go away. The fuel return line is needed to keep the vaporlock monster away. The vacuum ball for the heater controls is needed. Cruise control is nice for freeway cruising too.
When the truck is cold, turn on the key and unplug the back of the carb.
carnuck wrote:Weird! Usually that's inside the cab. Someone must have taken the truck where emission testing was required, like CA. Keep the black fuel vapor cannister, swap to a high flow cat and the AIR rubbish can go away. The fuel return line is needed to keep the vaporlock monster away. The vacuum ball for the heater controls is needed. Cruise control is nice for freeway cruising too.
When the truck is cold, turn on the key and unplug the back of the carb.
.............scribbling frantically into notepad................
wileyuradit Add a fuel filter (I use see through or a large TBI one) in the hose before the fuel pump. The tiny crud jams the fuel pump inlet valve open and plugs up the carb idle jets.
carnuck wrote:Weird! Usually that's inside the cab. Someone must have taken the truck where emission testing was required, like CA. Keep the black fuel vapor cannister, swap to a high flow cat and the AIR rubbish can go away. The fuel return line is needed to keep the vaporlock monster away. The vacuum ball for the heater controls is needed. Cruise control is nice for freeway cruising too.
When the truck is cold, turn on the key and unplug the back of the carb.
I have never seen the carb ECU inside the cab on an FSJ. On CJ's and YJ's yes, it was in the cab. On FSJ's (mine included) it is on the driver side fender.
Stuka wrote:I have never seen the carb ECU inside the cab on an FSJ. On CJ's and YJ's yes, it was in the cab. On FSJ's (mine included) it is on the driver side fender.
If I'm swapping out the carb to a motorcraft can I assume that the carb ECU is not necessary? And why did it "melt"?
Probably a short or the body to battery ground went missing and it overloaded to melting point. The carb ECU on my '84 J10 and '83 Cherokee was behind the kick panel on passenger's side like my Eagle.
Thanks for the info!
I'm working on taking stock in what I've got in the truck before I start taking things apart.
I would like to post pics and get input on anything I need to pay attention too.
My wife thinks I'm nuts. I just finished to making some upgrades to the TJ Unlimited Rubicon and now I'm jumping into this....(hence the title)
But she is totally supportive and I'm hoping to make this into a descent daily driver.
So, A couple more pics under the hood. It's going to take some work, But I think I've got a pretty good base to start with.
The "to do" list is growing but not too scary......
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Finally got around to draining the oil and based on the smell it had definitely had gas in it. I'll replace the fuel pump and start checking compression. Hopefully it was just a cracked diaphram.
And now its time to search for a diagram to properly get the "breathing" correct...
I finally got around to getting a good battery and checking compression.
Each cylinder was running around 130 to 145 with the exception of number 5. It was quite a bit higher at 160.
I found an old carb in my stockpile of old parts and posted pics on the FSJ tech thread for help in identification. (Thanks for prompt responses! much appreciated).
Looks like I've got a 2150 that I can work with to get the engine started.
Then I can hopefully get an idea of what shape the engine is really in. So far So good.
IT LIVES!
I put on the 2150, new fuel pump, plugs and some fresh oil and filter. Filled up a large mason jar with some clean fuel and placed it under the front and asked my wife to turn the key.
I watched the fuel drain and then it started! I was stunned!
So I grabbed a larger fuel can and let it run for a couple of minutes.
I've got oil pressure (based on the stock gauge) and no major ticks or knocks.
The radiator doesn't appear to be cycling coolant so I'll put in a new thermostat.
Definitely was a great weekend. Now the real work begins....