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Phils67 wrote:Is that rear bumper a customizee oem bumper or from another vehicle?
Bumper is from a 77 J20, used it because the end caps were steel and not rubber like the 79 oem bumper, all we did was sand blast it, made it fit tighter to the body and weld in 1/2 round exhaust curve and finally power coat satin black, Cheers
So close! Steve and I (mostly Steve) are dealing with all the mind numbing problems right now, just figured out how to make the Dakota Digital IP/GenIII ECM/Dana 20 8 pulse transducer all play nice together with HP Tuner software, another problem no one seems to able to solve is the stainless steel trim around the windshield, I have several sets of trim (all polished) bottom/side pieces fit but top piece is not bowed right I've had several of the long time hot rod restoration shop guys come by and look at the trim but no solutions, beginning to wonder if the new windshield is not shaped to oem spec's maybe there is a difference between J10 and GW or FSJ's with an eyebrow.
another recently solved issue with i piece glass was there was no room for power window switch's ended up using arm rests from a outfit in San Andreas,Ca. call Big Al's the switch are in the arm rest also has LED interior lights on the bottom, I worked on the A/C in their motorhome last summer and Big Al's wife brought the arm rests over on her way to a hair appointment in Sonora, small world!
Sadly the top trim piece is the one I am missing or I would let you guys try it out. I don’t recall there being a difference between FSJ windshields. Trim did change at some point as I recall, but I think it was just the look, not mounting.
I missed the section on door glass. How did you change the track for a full piece of glass? That is an amazing conversion I need to do it on all of my future builds.
1982 Wagoneer Limited 5.3L Vortec 4L60E swap - finished/restored - sold - bought back - sold again
1979 Wagoneer 360 TH400 1339 QT - built into perfect daily driver - sold
1981 J10 Sportside Honcho - finished/restored - sold
1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - 5.3L Vortec 6L80E swap - finished/restored - sold
1967 Super Wagoneer - sold, too much work
1978 J10 Golden Eagle - finished/restored - sold
1962 Rambler Classic Cross Country Wagon - current project, wife's daily driver - she'll never let me sell it
DustinLangston wrote:I missed the section on door glass. How did you change the track for a full piece of glass? That is an amazing conversion I need to do it on all of my future builds.
Hey Dustin, if you look at page 5 of this thread there's a picture of frame early on,since then mocked up thin plywood for glass and had tinted glass cut to fit,universal power window kits,the inner door latch/handle is a tight fit lot of messing with that, PW switch's are in arm rests from Big Al's. my son Steve did all of the fab you can talk to him at Creative Sound, Sonora, Ca or PM me and I'll put you in touch.
It Lives!
After 5 years of messing around with this truck finally drove it around the block Saturday, lots of mods turned out well love the LM7 runs so good , quick ratio steering box is perfect, exhaust note is sweet, only big issue is 3.53 diff gear ratio at 40 mph the engine was 500 rpm with tranny in 4th driveline was clanking time to install 4.56’s,
It Lives!
After 5 years of messing around with this truck finally drove it around the block Saturday, lots of mods turned out well love the LM7 runs so good , quick ratio steering box is perfect, exhaust note is sweet, only big issue is 3.53 diff gear ratio at 40 mph the engine was 500 rpm with tranny in 4th driveline was clanking time to install 4.56’s,
Nikkormat wrote:Did you end up with a wheel spacer up front?
Yup used 1" spacers all around,didn't want to but had no choice if going with these wheels although I'm thinking a set of black wheels might not look too bad maybe thats why it took 5 years
Just installed 4.56 R&P in front/ rear diffs TruTrac in rear welded tubes to carrier ( they were leaking) now onto rear disc brakes, didn’t want the Caddy style calipers so bought a D35 kit from Wilwood with internal e- brake[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201903 ... c45a1a.jpg[/IMG
Bolt pattern not the same so having a machine shop friend modify the backing plate to match oem drum brake backing plate ie bolt pattern and thickness
sonoraed wrote:Just installed 4.56 R&P in front/ rear diffs TruTrac in rear welded tubes to carrier ( they were leaking) now onto rear disc brakes, didn’t want the Caddy style calipers so bought a D35 kit from Wilwood with internal e- brake
wilwood doesn’t offer a 6 on 5.5 rotor so ordered blanks and will drill them out my self
Stuka wrote:Really, no 6x5.5, thats a pretty common lug pattern. Tons of GM and Toyotas use it.
6 on 5.5 available for front disc's in single piece or hat with bolt on rotors, but for 12.19 rear disc with internal e-brake-no. I've spent considerable time looking for a way to do internal e-brake on a old Dana 44 and non C clip Dana 35 seemed to be a close fit (other than for flange bolt pattern)
There is a You Tube vid of a guy installing rear disc from a mid 90's Grand Chero onto a early Cherokee (D35 non C clip) so could have modded a oem Jeep D35 setup which would been a steel backing plate (just weld up old mounting holes and redrill) but wanted to have have matching Wilwood calipers, the only thing about the aluminum Wilwood backing plate is it's 1/4" thick and the old drum plate is 1/8" thick (which along with flange sets preload for axle bearing) so in my mind there are two ways to solve this problem either use original D44 flange plate and mill the Wilwood (in the shape of oem flange) down to 1/8" thickness or leave backing 1/4" and fabricate a new flange out of 1/4" steel in the shape of old flange bolt pattern and mill it down to 1/8" everywhere but a center where it preloads axle bearing, jeep did this on newer D35's, I'll download a picture.