84 Grand Wagoneer Revival

[tgreese]

This is from the TSM.

Jeep78SchemoScrap (653 x 274).jpg

If it does not work with the switch in there, then it's broken.

I don't understand why you are happy with this working when it's wired wrong. It's overheating your alternator and draining your battery. Would not be acceptable to me. Your project though.

[devildog80]

But never really said I was happy it works like it does....broken, as I do want it to work correctly, and that is my goal.
I really am working to make it right, as I do want it to work like it should, just taking longer than I wanted to track the wiring and get it right. But another day will not matter as it will still be there tomorrow.....and probably still 110*+ so plenty of time to research and learn how to make it right when I get back to it.

Again tgreese, thanks

[devildog80]

So.....back at it this morning early (before we hit triple digit heat for the day), and wired up the alternator correctly so truck starts, charges, and shuts down........still bleeding!
As we already went through the entire fuse panel with no success, will be heading inside to start unplugging wire connectors, and see what we find there.
Thanks tgreese and all for so much assistance. I really do appreciate it.

[tgreese]

Suggest you unplug the alternator when you aren't driving. That connection must shut off when the ignition is off.

[devildog80]

I do pull the negative cable, so it kills the whole system when not driving.

[tgreese]

Yes, but that does not tell you where the drain is.

[devildog80]

It does not, and why its time to dive in deeper to find it.
Best I can figure, it is not from the alternator.
My guess is it must be either in the cab, or possibly in the trailer wiring that goes back to rear of the truck.
As said earlier we went through the entire fuse panel and radio, so still have door switches, dash switches, firewall pass throughs to check, and on and on.
Chipping away at it......albeit slow, but it will be found.
Thanks again

[devildog80]

Update

Fixed drivers window track, but window a bit tight yet as it has not been worked much in last 20 years.
Took motor and track out, cleaned and lubed track with silicone grease, a bit of WD40 in vertical wipes on either side but still seems tight in spots.
Top 3 inches or so nice but below that a bit bound up at spots but does go all the way down and up, with help.
Replaced horizontal glass wipes inside/outside too.

Another treatment on rear seat leather.

Started cleaning the steering wheel leather as gook really caked on and looks like Dawn dish soap will be needed for it.

Ran a couple errands about town.

Got back and checked trans fluid level in N/idle/level, and none on the stick.
Dumped 16oz can of Berrymans B12 in trans, and about 2 minutes it started growling back at me.
Let it run for about 5 minutes till it stopped growling, then shut it off to soak while good and warm.
Will get it up on stands tomorrow and let it idle in D to circulate fluids more and get innards cleaned up from sitting last 20 years.

Trans does shift good through 1-2-3 in town, but not ready to get on Interstate yet until I get it cleaned out, change fluid & filter.
Will need to do full flush to get B12 out of converter, and full of trans fluid before getting out in traffic.

Shocks also needed, but on work furlough right now so need to wait on that cost until Jeep fund replenished.

[devildog80]

So.....this morning put the rear wheels up on safety stands with tires about 2 inches off the ground.
Safety chocks in front & rear of front tires.
Started the truck, put in D and let rear tires turn.
As I had started it cold, rpm's at 900, so giving me about 18 mph just idling along.
About 38 minutes in I hear a clicking sound, which seems to be coming from under the truck so......thought trans getting loosened up.
Gas gauge shows 1/8th, temp normal, all good except the clicking sound.
At 44 minutes I decide enough for first day.
Shift trans to N, slowly stop wheels from turning and shift into P. Still hear the clicking.
Tap the skinny pedal to bring rpm's down to normal idle at 600 and clicking does not change.
DOH.....electric fuel pump searching for some liquid gas in the tank.
Shut it off and drop wheels back on the ground, turn key on and fuel pump clicks then goes quiet.....found liquid gas.
Grab my wallet & phone and head to the gas station.
Twice on the way there the fuel pump started clicking, so knew I was just feeding it in little waves between stopping and starting, with what little gas was left in the tank.
Made it to the pump and put 12 gls in the 23 gl tank.
Now gauge reads between 3/4 & full, so when I see 3/4 that would be a 1/2 actual tank.
I can remember that as my dad had a '72 Impala that was the same way.
Fill it up and would take forever it seemed before gauge would drop below the full mark, but when it said 1/2 tank, it would go down much quicker.
Back to original update is the trans shifted smoother today than it has so far, which was not too bad to begin with.
I plan to leave the Berrymans in it until weekend after next, and each day go out and set up on stands to, let it idle in drive for about an hour.
Then do a full flush on it to push out all the Berrymans & crud, new filter & fluid, and give him a little putt around town and maybe get out on the big boy road and see how it does for more than just a couple miles.

To add - while trans was doing its work, figured I could work on PSF window.
I replaced the track in DSF yesterday.
So running window up/down looking in track where it seems to be catching.
Couple times cycled, found trouble spot so cleared it out of the track, WD40 on existing motor track to help old window actuator work.
Another couple times cycled the window and going down about 3 inches.....little pop and motor keeps running but window did not.
Oh geez. Old window actuator snapped about 2 inches below where it attaches to the glass.
Thats good though as it will hold the window closed for now until I dive into it and replace that broken one.
Perhaps tomorrow while trans getting its run time again.

[devildog80]

Mongo228 changed to fixed fan on his CJ7 w/new 360 engine.
I was blessed with his new clutch fan setup (THANK YOU SO MUCH), so we installed it on the waggy's 401.
Now you can really hear the fan when running, like it should be, as my old one was much weaker than I thought.
Night and day difference, but temps still pushed up after an hour idling.
Thinking radiator needs washed out on the outside, cleaned with an outside coil cleaner, like is used on your home A/C unit.
Will see how it cools after that to determine if it will need pulled and sent in for internal cleaning.

Another session running the trans with wheels up.
Sounds like TC chain a little loose as when no load against the drive train, and just idling along, you can hear a little ticking from TC.

While trans cleaning itself, repaired the broken window track in PSF, so both front doors now have working windows.

[Srdayflyer]

to check timing chain play put a socket on the harmonic balancer nut with a breaker bar turn in the direction of normal rotation till it becomes tight and you start to turn the crank, then stop then turn in the opposite direction, you should not see more than 1/2" play if more than that i would be concerned about excessive timing chain wear and drivability and timing issues

[devildog80]

Little chuckle.....and thanks for that but.....my "TC" clicking is from the NP229 Transfer Case.
And hope it would not be timing chain, as engine came to me with only 2500 miles on rebuild (documented with paperwork PO sent with the truck), so better not be that.

[devildog80]

Scored some old test equipment.
Answered a local ad here on a community site for the free timing light, as noted it had not been proven to work. So asked the guy when I rolled up if he had any other old testers. He did, and this morning hooked up the timing light, and it works

So keeping the timing light, but looks like the other 3 would be of better use to those of you running older rigs with points.
Willing to work out something if you have been looking for one of these.
I can get you better pics if needed. PM me.

20230813_090935 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

[devildog80]

Pulled the OEM cruise control system out and retired it to the stock pile of parts.
Now I have another port through the firewall to make better use of.

[devildog80]

Received a variety of little "stuff" in the mail, so putzing to use the tools, electrical items, where does the disconnect switch need to go, etc.

Got tinkering inside the waggy to locate disconnect switch and when opening the glove box door it squeaked again, as it has been doing since truck came home.
Adjusted that, pulled ashtray out as mount was bent and did not slide smooth so fixed and re-installed it. Ashtray light not working and do not see how to replace the bulb. Looks like a sealed fixture.

Under the hood made use of some of new electrical "stuff" to clean up wires that were still in test mode, but testing has completed.
Put connectors & heat shrinks on where needed and cleaned those wires up.

Verified my fuel return line IS on the DS fender, and not on the PS as I had thought I traced it months back. Mongo228 stopped by for a bit and we verified the line as it was already cleared for service when I dropped the tank last year, it is now ready to put that back in service. Need to do some hard line configuring from fuel feed at the frame to the carb for more permanent use.

Bought a gallon of home A/C coil cleaner to spray on outside of the radiator, evap coil, and trans cooler to cleanup the fins.
New fan works well but still not cooling much better than the old fan was, so will try the coil cleaner first, then when Jeep funds get replenished radiator might need to come out for a shop visit for reconditioning the OEM radiator back to 5 star capacity.

Double checked ATF level in transfer case and found it is good.
Soon to be hitting the trails and test the 4x4 system to see if it needs any TLC for long term use.

[devildog80]

Anyone know what Rancho shock this is?

A pic of one of the front shocks, and yes, I think too they are mounted upside down.

Rancho
112
Made in USA
00441 (?)

20230815_161036 by Scott Weckerly, on Flickr

[Yeller]

Those are quite old and definitely upside down. I don't remember how many decades its been since I've seen a 3 digit Rancho part number..... guessing over 3 decades LOL

[devildog80]

There is a 5 position adjustment knob, which is at the top, but thinking it should be at the bottom.....according to pics I found on the web.
I would like to replace all of them for like item, so trying to narrow down what I would need, and save up for them.
These were on the truck when I got it, so they are late 1990's to early 2000's vintage, as the truck was parked in 2004.

So the 112 is the part number?
I looked for the 00441, but nothing definitive found, so will try that.

Edit - Looks like they are the 9000 series with the adjustment knob.

[Yeller]

yes 112 is the part number

Here's the modern equivalent
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ran-rs999112

[devildog80]

Figured out these are the 9000 series shock, but Rock Auto only has up to the 2.5" lift @ $97 ea, and I have a 4" lift.
​​​​​​​Will need to measure mine to be sure what I need before ordering.
Thanks all for the help....and the link