Well, I finally had the extra time and finances to fix something that had slowly been getting worse over time. The trip to Oklahoma really showed how worn the suspension of this Wag was. I had already lowered the front bump stops to protect the aluminum oil pan from being contacted by the front axle. There was almost no room for up travel (maybe 2-2.5" at most).
So, I opted for the BJ's/Deaver Spring Company 2.5" lift over a stock height setup.
The parts started arriving on Monday, and the springs showed up the next day.
I opted for the Bilstein shock upgrade
Broke out the necessary tools for the surgery. Had to cut two U bolts on the rear, and one of the rear main eye bolts had seized in the bushing. A sawzall and a lot of anger and rage finally prevailed in cutting it free from either side of the spring and inside the box that shielded it.
Ironically, the captive nut (behind the coffin tank if yours is original) gave me no fit whatsoever. And I used no penetrating oil or heat. I was lucky and discovered there was no rust in the frame after I removed it during the swap.
As far as the dreaded shackle alignment and lift springs being short, I only used a C-clamp to compress the spring behind the axle toward the overload leaf. About half compression was all it needed to allow for reinstallation of the shackle bolts.
The front axle was slightly easier due to AMC's rust prevention method of engine leaks. Everything came out. No heat. No penetrating oil. The 18v impact was very useful, though.
One thing to note on the front springs:
On my axle (1984 model), the centering pins are .5" originally. The pins in the Deaver springs mic at .575" and WILL NOT go in. The hole on the axle measured about .52", So I clamped the new spring pack together tightly and removed the center pin, turning it down with a bench grinder. I ended up tapering it from .5" to about .53" so it would snug up nicely inside the axle under torque.
I did one side at a time on the front axle, leaving the other side attached since I was working solo and didn't want to fight the axle any more than necessary. I bolted the main eye in first, then used a floor jack to lift the spring into place from behind the front axle. The center pin and axle locating hole didn't want to line up easily, so a ratchet strap looped around the axle and anchored elsewhere on the frame gave me the assistance I needed to plink the pin into place.
The Driver's front spring gave the greatest fit about lining up. The larger U bolt supplied in the kit just didn't want to go through the lower spring plate after fitting over the differential and being angled to match the original path. Pry bars, C-clamps, hammers, and ratchet straps all came into play. One thing I noted was the springs in the pack were slightly out of line with each other. Most likely, this happened while the pin was out for grinding down. Some whacks with a mallet lined everything up evenly again, and helped the U bolt situation.
From tired stock springs to the new 2.5s, I got exactly 4" of lift as measured from the rocker panel at each wheel.
This puts the Jeep at a comparable height to most factory spec SUVs. I am at eye level with stock Grand Cherks, Exploders, 4 Runners (not the lifted TRD Pwos with their Wittle Wadders and Jungle gym Woof Wacks
), etc.
This is, to me, the perfect height for a stockish FSJ if you want to keep the same tire size.
BJ's site states that you are good to 30x9.50s without any issues. I'm sticking with the 235s as the axle is staying 2.72 ratio. They're only 1" less diameter and most wouldn't be able to notice any difference.
Happy Doggo. She gets to go for Jeep rides again in her favorite vantage point. I just have to lift her wag half into the Wag now.
2004 4.8LS/Advance Adapter/727/242 D44/AMC20 Serehill tailgate and headlight harnesses 
I hate vague instructions with no pictures.
That said, The old 360 never gave me a fit about getting hot either, but a new radiator, thermostat, and hoses were the first thing I purchased many years ago when I bought it.
