Full Size Jeep Network

You're moving along good. I was in the same boat as you, all alone, but full of ambition lol. I pulled the front clip, pulled body bolts and then slowly jacked it up moving front to back until it was cribbed up enough to roll it out on the rear drums. I plan on putting 6x6's through the body and making the base wide enough to roll my 16' trailer under, then mount the body to some more 6x6's on the trailer and take to blaster.

I have gotten my frame back and epoxy painted and just finished my new brake and fuel lines along with some new tie rods and stabilizer bushings.

keep posting, it good motivation.

Heck yes, post your setup if you do. I will need to see it. I’m debating blasting the body or clear coating the patina.


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Waiting on body mounts from bjs.









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While waiting for new body mounts I took apart the old ones and dipped them in por15, I also plasti dipped brake line and flue line frame clips.

So new body mounts don’t come with the tube>washer. Aka don’t throw those out. It took a while to remove them, and they were 1/8” too big for the new body mounts. So I heated them up and forces them in with my vice.

Also two tubes were rusted and broken off the washers. So I cleaned them up and welded some steel pipe I had. (Not a good welder yet)





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Next recommendation, have more than one person, or more than just a bottle jack & regular jack. Oh and do it on level concrete.

The stilts I had the body on were too sketch to do anything under the body so I went ahead and put frame back under.

New brake lines from BJs(major props to Ryan and co). The aux tank might be my main tank going forward, it’s a trailblazer tank from Boise.

Body mount cages were por15’d before putting frame back under. After I replace some rust in the floors I’ll por15 and undercoat the underbody.










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Man, that frame sure is looking pretty! Nicely done.

More progress:

Brakes bled, there was some debris in the rear bleeders but other than that it was smooth.

Red head steering box from bjs installed. Went smooth and steering feels good.

Ls mounted!

It’s a 1979 and I decided to use Novak for the mounts, basically it’s a universal mount kit for pre 1980. When positioning engine we noticed that there was a set of holes in the cross member that seemed to be driver side oriented and spaced properly apart for the 4l60e mount. (4 3/8” & Trans crossmember was in rear mounting set.) We dropped it in those holes and it seemed to be in a sweet spot.

There seemed to be one original engine mount hole that lines up with the mounts. And it snugged right up against rear upper shock tower bolt. So we flipped that bolt around cut the head and welded it in as a stud.

All in all the process went smooth and I’m excited to move on to wiring, fuel, exhaust and drive lines.











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Also had to redo the rag joint, I bought the rebuild kit instead of the whole new assembly.

It requires drilling out studs, that seem to be more or less riveted in. I threw it in my HF drill press and made short work of it.





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K it’s been awhile, covid and all. But I got floors patched! Interior floors cleaned out, started lining them. Sound deadened the headliner and am waiting on insulation.

I also got the psi harness pushed through the firewall, currently thinking that the pcm should be mounted behind the passenger side grab bar.

Fuse panel is probably going to be mounted in the bjs plastic glovebox, same with odb2.










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I also got a refreshed 4l60, and rebuilt a npc241c with SYE from jb conversions. I installed with a clocking ring.

- Need to measure and order drive lines

But I did get stock(ish) shifter to adapt to the 4l60!!!

Note, I know the shift fork is Jeep but I can’t remember from which one. I know that it doesn’t match 1980 th400 or 1980 tf727.

Notice the hook and fork go in the same direction not opposite like my 1980 th400.




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Ooh and the psi c10 dbw pedal installed with a tiny dremel modification to the column collar.



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I ordered tank and in tank gen3 compatible pump from bjs, but.... it turns out it’s too tall! By an inch at least.

Bjs suggested I disassemble the intake tube from the pump, cut and flare. Then reassemble. So I did, and it’s installed to the tank!

Got to do some undercoating before installing it.




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Looking good! The shift mechanism looks like TH400 to me, matches what I installed for my th400 conversion from a 79 Chero. The 727 linkage was a bit more Rube Goldberg IMO. Different geometry altogether.

Fleet Fox

Cruise control now hooked up. Stock column switch to psi controller.

For reference my analysis of oljeep.com diagrams and continuity testing I found:
- brown = set
- green = on
- yellow = resume/acc
- red = power

It took a special circuit trick involving two relays, present in psi instructions. Pictures to follow. Also I’m pretty sure my relays should mount to the side of the stock fuse box, I’ll try tmrw.


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Big call out to Nates Wagoneer restoration in haymarket Va for the floorboard work. He was very timely, and thorough. He even added POR15 to the inners of the supports before putting everything back together.

I could easily tell he’s done quite a few FSJ floors, look at those spot welds! Looks like a damn airplane! There’s no buckle or Snapple to them. Big fan!

NatesRestorationServices @ g mail


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Put in a new fuel tank, with in tank pump. So had to run high pressure line to fuel rail. It's returnless(I think), so I used one of those corvette filters/regulators.

(New tank is bjs, in tank pump is bjs, fuel lines were rockauto stock replacement but I’m only gonna use one of them. I’m gonna do the evap delete.


When that’s sorted, I’ll need to route the lines and shorten them. Mount filter to frame rail.

But the big one, filler hoses were just dead and splitting. So I got some from a hose shop. Gonna route them, mount the tank and install.

Main filler line: 1” ID
Vent filler line: 3/4” ID
Vent that goes into the rear quarter panel: 3/4” ID



Exhaust looks like it'll need to be done at a shop. It's pretty tight.

Tank is on driver, but transfer case front drive line is passenger. So I'll have to have them custom made to snug past that. And run back on pass side



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https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... fgbrng.php

Someone just posted a link to the th400 linkage bushing, so posting here for records sake.


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My dash has a bad crack down the middle at the speaker. I had another one on hand (thanks to Adam McDaniel up at jeep recyclers).

It used to be brown, lol but a bit of research and some advice from nates Wagoneer I touched it up.





Before and after painting. Holy smokes it looks new!


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