Full Size Jeep Network

Pics of what I'm looking at. When pushing on the button to open the rear drivers door, the rod skips above the plate, and therefore doesn't spring back. Only does so once the inside handle is used.

I disassembled the whole thing and it all looks fine enough. But I *think* what's happening is that the downward movement of the door caused by this broken hinge is what's causing the rod to skip off the plate.

But I cannot tell what's happening here. I imagine there should be a hinge pin going through but in the close ups it looks like a solid piece. Can't even find definition that there is/was a pin here. New hinge needed? Is there a pin that should run through there that's just perfectly seared off?

https://ibb.co/Z6R6mxd

https://ibb.co/VDWRkT7

Yes, it's just what you would imagine - a hinge from the body to the door with a pin between the two halves. The pin is sheared off. The hinge pin was available from Jeep as PN 4004896. There is a minuscule chance that you can find one in a NOS stash somewhere, but nothing shows up on the web. If it were me, I would buy a hinge from a wreck and replace the whole lower hinge.

Not this one?
https://teamgrandwagoneer.com/front-doo ... e-pin-kit/

I used their tailgate hinge pin repair, but had to take it to a machine shop to drill old one out and install new one. 180 bucks

memsiej wrote: ↑Sat May 15, 2021 11:32 am Not this one?
https://teamgrandwagoneer.com/front-doo ... e-pin-kit/

Wrong door and wrong part number. I'd guess it's a 5758134. My book does not show bushings for the back door. You really want to drive the old pin out and install a new pin, rather than replacing the hinge? Sounds like a good way to double the required effort ... if you could find the right pin. No way you're going replace the pin without removing the hinge.

Johnzi10 wrote: ↑Sat May 15, 2021 12:32 pm I used their tailgate hinge pin repair, but had to take it to a machine shop to drill old one out and install new one. 180 bucks

Jeez, you could buy an entire door for the price of labor. Maybe two. Should be plenty of opportunities to buy a hinge from a part-out.

tgreese wrote: ↑Sat May 15, 2021 1:31 pm
ou really want to drive the old pin out and install a new pin, rather than replacing the hinge? Sounds like a good way to double the required effort ... if you could find the right pin. No way you're going replace the pin without removing the hinge.

I'd much rather just replace the whole hinge, but am having a hard time finding one.

Parts section here. I think there was a change in the latches ca 1980 or something. Maybe not the hinges; should be easy if you find a complete rust bucket that someone is parting out. There is car-part.com - look for someplace with a rear door. There are FSJ specialty wrecking yards - you don't put your locale in your signature, so it's hard to suggest specifics.

I went to the parts forum and there's an '85 GW parting out right near the top. If it were a snake ...

Sorry to read this, it is a good notice to everyone reading your post, grease, oil and derust the rear hinges... they get very rusty, the rear doors get harder to open... and the pin breaks... Checked my stash, I have the other side and even being indoor for over 15 years it was impossible to open until I soaked it with PB blaster and Kroil. J&W in Sacramento might have one, give them a call.

Someone on FB had one! Definitely going to grease the heck out of all the other hinges for preventative measure

letank wrote: ↑Sat May 15, 2021 6:21 pm Sorry to read this, it is a good notice to everyone reading your post, grease, oil and derust the rear hinges... they get very rusty, the rear doors get harder to open... and the pin breaks... Checked my stash, I have the other side and even being indoor for over 15 years it was impossible to open until I soaked it with PB blaster and Kroil. J&W in Sacramento might have one, give them a call.

On this topic, the line mechanics at the Jeep dealer kept a pump oiler full of half solvent / half oil and would squirt everything at a routine service. Customers liked it, and nothing squeeked.

Recall that a mix of acetone & ATF is a popular and inexpensive substitute for penetrating oils like Kroil and PB Blaster. Acetone has a high vapor pressure, and will push its way out of a squirt bottle. Drip drip drip just sitting there. In the lab we would lay the acetone bottle down on its side with the nozzle up so that it would not drip.
https://www.amazon.com/Labvida-Unitary- ... 085G86XYN/

tgreese wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 6:55 am On this topic, the line mechanics at the Jeep dealer kept a pump oiler full of half solvent / half oil and would squirt everything at a routine service. Customers liked it, and nothing squeeked.

Recall that a mix of acetone & ATF is a popular and inexpensive substitute for penetrating oils like Kroil and PB Blaster. Acetone has a high vapor pressure, and will push its way out of a squirt bottle. Drip drip drip just sitting there. In the lab we would lay the acetone bottle down on its side with the nozzle up so that it would not drip.
https://www.amazon.com/Labvida-Unitary- ... 085G86XYN/

X2, I reuse the bicycle chain cleaning squirt bottles which have a sliding tube, perfect to drip a few drops of the Acetone/Dextron at 50/50