Agreed on the seals. Sac city corvette has inexpensive alignment tools. I used one on my T/A.Yeller wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 6:16 am
Couple of things to do to the donor motor, based on my experience with swapping many of them. Plan on changing the water pump, pan gasket, timing cover gasket and seal, rear main cover and seal, and valve cover gaskets. also don't skimp and not use an alignment tool for the timing and rear cover to prevent leaks. Nothing is worse than getting it put in and a week later it needs a water pump, and the rear main cover is leaking...... Only had the rear main leak on 1, but its $20 and 30 minutes to change it before it goes in, once its in, it has to come back out or the transmission comes out. I'm 0 for 12 on water pumps lasting the test drive, even on motors that I pulled from running, driving vehicles and immediately installed.
Yeah, a D300 is also a viable option, but they are more costly. But they use the NP round pattern so are easy to adapt to.tgreese wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 9:28 am Interesting that Stuka cites the length of the NP cases as reason to go with the 20. I'd think the Dana 300 would be the superior alternative if the 20 is ok. Demand is high for the 300; you should be able to source several 18s or 20s for the cost of a 300. But they are out there, passenger drop like the 18 and 20, come with a NP pattern typically, and are well supported in the aftermarket.
I was planning on rebuilding/refreshing all the new parts and pieces when they arrived. Far easier to do that stuff when its out the Jeep than in it.Yeller wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 6:16 am Couple of things to do to the donor motor, based on my experience with swapping many of them. Plan on changing the water pump, pan gasket, timing cover gasket and seal, rear main cover and seal, and valve cover gaskets. also don't skimp and not use an alignment tool for the timing and rear cover to prevent leaks. Nothing is worse than getting it put in and a week later it needs a water pump, and the rear main cover is leaking...... Only had the rear main leak on 1, but its $20 and 30 minutes to change it before it goes in, once its in, it has to come back out or the transmission comes out. I'm 0 for 12 on water pumps lasting the test drive, even on motors that I pulled from running, driving vehicles and immediately installed.
My current truck is an LQ4/4l80e/241c. I'm very happy with it other than my 241c has a cracked case and leaks. After pricing getting a core, rebuilding it, adding a slip yoke eliminator, if I paid myself labor, I was within a couple of hundred dollars of an Atlas, I just ordered a 3.0 Atlas and not looking back. not the least expensive option but in my opinion the best option for my brain, and my use of the truck.
For reference, here's the info on the mechanical speedo drive for anyone interested. Not cheap but it works well.
https://speedhut.com/categories/speedbox.html
Got it. And as far as I am aware my QT is in ok shape besides some minor leaking, but then again what isn't leaking on this Jeep.Stuka wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 7:01 am I would not consider using a D18 behind an LS a good idea. There was issues with D18 reliability behind anemic i6 engines, which is why the D20 came around.
The D20 is also not the best option, but it will survive if you don't abuse it. And sadly, I think an NP case is not an options due to the much longer case which would result in more of a drive shaft angle with the offset rear axle. Which its worth noting the rear axle you have was the same for the D20 and QT equipped models (only the case for WT and J-Trucks).
As far as I know, you can put a QT on the back of a GM TH400 if you swap the rear output shaft out, but I would need to dig around some to see if anybody else has done that. But I think it would be the cheapest route for you to go.
Though before going that route, it would be good to find out the current condition of your QT. No point in going through all the work to keep it, just to find out its toast.
It is a center rear output. It would require a slip yolk eliminator, and a standard single ujoint and not a CV at the tcase. In my opinion, stock height up to about 2-1/2” of lift you’ll be fine. Yes mine is in a truck but has a Dana 60 and a really long slip yoke eliminator that is 8” longer than a normal one, so the driveshaft is the same length as it would be in your wagon.megaman_plums wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 12:01 pm
I had heard about the 241c but everything I had seen was that it was a passenger front/center rear. I know some people are ok with the center to rear offset and others aren't but I just don't see too many people posting about it. And an Atlas would be amazing but I am not planning on anything serious in terms of offroading.
I did same as Yeller...LQ9, 4L60E, 241...bought everything form one wrecking yard with ECM, harness, and DBW pedal. Used my stock D44 axles for years with no issues at all, then upgraded to D60 and Corp14. Dakota Digital gauges for me.Yeller wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 6:16 am Lots of options. You could pick up core turbo 400 and change the case. I have a converter snout ring I'd mail you if you go this route, also have a D20, t400 output shaft, and adapter that I'd send you for the cost of shipping if you wanted away from the quadratrac. The simplest route if you want overdrive is to go to a 2wd 4l80e from an RV or van, they have a fully splined output shaft that can be cut to the correct length, the rear speed sensor is in the case on a 2wd, allowing you to run any transfer case that has a 32 spline input with a mechanical speedometer. 700r4 is an option as well, I have one behind a 5.3, it is ok, but it shifts too early, even with a corvette valve body, governor and servo's and converter lockup control is terrible, really wish I had done a 4l60e. If you do a transfercase without a mechanical speedo Speedhut does sell a speedometer drive that works very well converting a VSS signal to a mechanical drive.
Couple of things to do to the donor motor, based on my experience with swapping many of them. Plan on changing the water pump, pan gasket, timing cover gasket and seal, rear main cover and seal, and valve cover gaskets. also don't skimp and not use an alignment tool for the timing and rear cover to prevent leaks. Nothing is worse than getting it put in and a week later it needs a water pump, and the rear main cover is leaking...... Only had the rear main leak on 1, but its $20 and 30 minutes to change it before it goes in, once its in, it has to come back out or the transmission comes out. I'm 0 for 12 on water pumps lasting the test drive, even on motors that I pulled from running, driving vehicles and immediately installed.
My current truck is an LQ4/4l80e/241c. I'm very happy with it other than my 241c has a cracked case and leaks. After pricing getting a core, rebuilding it, adding a slip yoke eliminator, if I paid myself labor, I was within a couple of hundred dollars of an Atlas, I just ordered a 3.0 Atlas and not looking back. not the least expensive option but in my opinion the best option for my brain, and my use of the truck.
For reference, here's the info on the mechanical speedo drive for anyone interested. Not cheap but it works well.
https://speedhut.com/categories/speedbox.html