Ok, so this weekend, I FINALLY got the oil pump to stop leaking oil. Took forever to get it, but I finally did.
I have a high volume pump on it, because when I first put it in ($200 used engine, was supposedly good but needed resealed, so it was in pieces. Came with Qjet/4-barrel manifold, short block, and the heads needed installed), it was sitting at JUST above 0 psi of oil pressure at idle. No knocking or anything, but it was so incredibly low. The high volume pump did fix that (I assume the bearings are just worn a bit)(but, since we have no idea on the mileage on the engine, and I'm sure the engine has never been rebuilt before (it's possible somebody upgraded the cam at some point, but I kind of doubt it), it's not totally unexpected. And it still has plenty of power and such, so why not run it as-is?
Anyway, after doing that, it always leaked. Like, badly. I tried resealing it so many times that the bolt holes in the timing cover got stripped, and I had to Heli-Coil them. And then it STILL leaked.
Finally this weekend, it was time for an oil change, and I decided to try it again. I got it all pulled apart, and was making sure that EVERY surface got totally cleaned (no pits, no gasket material, just bare, smooth, flat (watch the site scanner flag this as inappropriate
) surfaces. I still had the oil filter mount (bottom of the oil pump assembly, for those who don't know) from the other engine, and decided to look and see which was in better shape. Upon examining them, I determined that the one from the old engine was better, and got it all prepped. My dad came out and looked, and went "uh why is this one flat on the top?"
As it turns out, the plate/filter mount that I had on there before was resurfaced at one point (and frankly could stand to be again). Only they didn't resurface exclusively what they needed to--they went across the entire top section. This means that they made the top of the section the o-ring for the filter seals up against, flat, instead of round. I had just assumed it was right, but sure enough, the other one was round on top.
I also had a brand new booster plate (which is steel/iron) already, and because this one wasn't PERFECT, I decided to go ahead and put the plate in. A) It should last longer than the aluminum, and B) the aluminum had some very minor pits and things, so if I could get it to seal before that and not have oil potentially right up close to those pits, it would be less likely to leak.
I also resealed the oil pressure line (fittings in the block were leaking)(mechanical oil gauge; the circuit board is messed up where the light goes anyway), so that's not leaking anymore either. I'm sure the oil pan leaks a little, and maybe the rear main, but it is FAR better than it was. It was up to a quart every 2-3 days (~a quart a tank).
Next I've got to address the rear axle...looks to be spraying more and more oil around, which is a sign that the axle bearings are going out...