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I bought 2 cans of EN-66 on amazon from seymour. Apparently american made.. Original manufacturer for AMC blue ? So i read no idea..

Anyway, its been 4 days now since i painted my valve covers, my oil pan and my filler tube, i used high temp primer, 2-3 coats. and 2-3 coats of the seymour paint.. The paint is dry to the touch, no issues of course, but ANYTHING that rubs it, peels it off... any i cleaned these covers meticulously and used brake cleaner after.. they were CLEAN..

I used my mechanics stethascope tonight on my valve covers.. it pealed the paint off so easily.. and my brake booster hose.. rubbed the paint off lol.. Its even worse when the engine is hot... Whats the deal ? Im considering calling them tomorrow and asking what is going on

In my experience that's just how engine paint is. I haven't done a great job prepping my stuff, but the intake especially, and the valve covers too, tend to not not hold paint very well. Something about the pop metal on the covers, and the intake just gets heated and cooled so much...if you put an aluminum intake on it would probably hold up better there (I realize you didn't paint your intake).

If you're super worried about it I think you're going to have to get the valve covers and stuff sandblasted, otherwise the paint won't want to stick. Since you don't drive it in the salt I wouldn't bother with it unless you need to pull the stuff off again anyway.

No it should be fine ill just have to touch it up with a small brush i guess

I used some prep on the oil pan... probably rust primer or converter (it was a long time ago) and ford blue.... or whatever was in stock... it did not held up very well... need to find the current status
we probably need to use high temp paint, the one for headers, which I used on the motorcycle , and it has been doing well.

on the other end the valve cover held up fairly well on the 74... same paint as listed above.

No hardener in spray cans. Generally they are quite soft, especially for the first few weeks. You could try mixing your own (including hardener) and spraying with a spray gun (like a Propel, or a gun from Harbor Freight) or brush/roll. Really, thjat's the only more durable coating if you want single stage and custom-matched colors.

I've heard of 2-part spray cans that must be used up soon after you mix them. Ask your local automotive paint store. You could also clear coat with a 2-stage clear finish, and that would be more durable.
https://refinishdepot.com/products/3x-2 ... e-shipping
https://www.bing.com/search?q=2K+clear+coat+spray+can

2-psrt epoxy primer cures hard, with no isocyanate hardener. Moisture cured urethane (MCU) too (POR-15 type, lots of brands). Both have limited colors available. I like Aluthane, but the cost of shipping has become as much as the paint. Hirsch Miracle Paint was cheaper and looks near equivalent.

In my experience, rattle can can take weeks to fully cure. It tends to be decent durable with all the correct prep work and such. I have painted bumpers and diff covers that have hit rocks and such, and sure, the paint comes off right where the rock gouges the steel, but otherwise held up.

Important to use an etching primer also. Paint won't stick to a super smooth surface.

I have had excellent results with Seymour EN-66 AMC Blue paint. I used it during the restoration of my CJ7 in 2014 on the engine block, timing cover, valve covers, and oil pan. The finish is still good nine years later even after cleaning road grime and misc oil in places. I used it on my current restoration of my J truck. Again, excellent results and a tough finish for spray paint. All parts were blasted with glass beads, prepped with thinner, wiped with a tack cloth, and primered with a standard Krylon enamel gray primer of two coats. I estimate 2-3 finish coats of the EN-66. I will use it again on my next engine.

I used it on a 360 in a Javelin I'm putting together now and Stuka's right, it took it a couple of weeks for it to cure. Once it did, it seems tough to me because I've haven't had any peel or anything.

brake cleaner leaves a residual film that can have the effects you are seeing, i always use an automotive surface prep solvent on everything i paint , or use MEK. you can catalyst based rattle cans but its a 1 and done you have about3-4 hours before its no good to spray and a bit pricy at 20.00 a can where i buy paint

Srdayflyer wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 9:03 pm brake cleaner leaves a residual film that can have the effects you are seeing, i always use an automotive surface prep solvent on everything i paint , or use MEK. you can catalyst based rattle cans but its a 1 and done you have about3-4 hours before its no good to spray and a bit pricy at 20.00 a can where i buy paint

I was wondering about that. I meant to ask what type of brake clean it was (chlorinated or not).

MEK is great if you can get it. Enamel reducer is much easier for most people to get.

Non chlorinated. It seems to be harder now thats its veen a week+. Doesnt just rub off. Ill have to touch the spots up that did though which sucks.. as i painted it lerfectly. And i just dont feel like taking the valve covers off and stripping em again lol