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Hi everyone. I've been pouring thru dozens of old threads I found using the search-function, but not finding answers to some of my questions; so I thought I'd post. I'm working on my 1979 Wagoneer with Dana 44 axles.
Questions regarding the rear Dana 44:
It has the tapered roller-bearings with separate races. How tight should the races fit into the housing? My left-side needed a light tug with the slide hammer to remove, but the right-side would turn in the housing. Is that OK? Should I try to peen the tubes or something?
The replacement bearings I have are the 1-piece style (AC Delco A10) - these are interchangeable with the original tapered-roller bearings, correct?
My housing (with taper roller bearings) has the inner seals - should I remove them and over-fill the diff to accommodate the 1-piece sealed bearings?
Thanks!
Bill
1979 Wagoneer
1959 Bel Air
1968 Nova
1972 Eldo ragtop
1980 Z28
What brand are the original bearings? I believe that the "AC Delco" bearing is somebody else's production that's relabeled. Are there Delco markings on the bearings, or country of origin? Delco is not a brand I would think of when considering a replacement bearing.
RockAuto shows a National, Timken and SKF part for that application. https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=994262 These are well-known bearing mfrs. The mfr determines the application info typically. With open bearings, you must pack them if you leave the seal in, and typically you would pack them even if you left out the inner seal.
JMO - I would use a reputable brand (ie National), pack the bearings with grease, and keep or replace the inner seals. I would not overfill the housing in any case. If no inner seals, typically you would pack the bearings and not depend on the gear oil for initial lubrication.
Last edited by tgreese on Wed May 10, 2023 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
Point taken about the bearing quality, these are Delco "Gold" series which are supposedly their best; but they are made in China, so I'll get some different bearings. I think the original tapered-rollers are Timkens or Nationals.
It looks like all of the bearings in your link are sealed #10 bearings - which is my main question - do they interchange with the tapered roller bearings?
And the races not being tight in the housing, is that acceptable? Maybe I should peen the tubes a little?
Last edited by Hobart on Wed May 10, 2023 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill
1979 Wagoneer
1959 Bel Air
1968 Nova
1972 Eldo ragtop
1980 Z28
Hobart wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2023 12:09 pm
Hi Tim, and thanks for the reply.
Point taken about the bearing quality, these are Delco "Gold" series which are supposedly their best; but they are made in China, so I'll get some different bearings. I think the original tapered-rollers are Timkens or Nationals.
It actually looks like all of the bearings in your link are sealed #10 bearings - which is my main question - do they interchange with the tapered roller bearings?
And the races not being tight in the housing, is that acceptable?
I'm not sure they are sealed. The National says it's not separable, but I can see the rollers. An A10 should be an A10; I don't think the race being separable matters.
Reluctant to opine on the housing. Suspect that's what happens when the axle is overloaded. All the new axles I've seen required some slide hammer action to remove from the housing. However, I'm not sure such wear matters much to daily use. Dunno. I expect I would put it together and hope for the best.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I'm looking at the listing, and the top two BCA parts are the tapered bearing and the race, and they're actually really cheap. I don't care about the money, I just want to buy the best part. I'm just unsure if the original style tapered is better or the sealed bearing is better.
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Not sealed, just not separable. JMO - I'd pick the Timken SET10 or National A10. Not sure these are actually tapered and may instead have cylindrical bearings that are retained in the race by the bearing construction. You need the set with the retainer, since the retainer is routinely ruined by removal. IMO it's also pointless to sell the race separate from the bearing, since they wear in to each other, and you can't (shouldn't) use a new bearing with an old race.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I have taken apart numerous D44 rear axles, here is what I have noticed:
Several had grease still packed in the bearings with no outer seal installed. This leads me to believe not a great deal of oil is making its way to the outer reaches of the axle. For this reason I always pack these bearings with grease and don’t bother installing the seal.
I used to name my FSJ’s after their previous owners, I realized I had too many with five named Rick.