TF 727 - Removing Linkages from valvebody?? HOW??

[Greg72]

Up to my eyeballs in ATF this afternoon but can't seem to make any progress on removing the valvebody.

- Drained the fluid
- Pulled the pan
- Removed the valvebody bolts to replace the checkball and spring on the roostercomb
- Discovered that there are two linkages pinned to the selector shaft that need to be removed before the VB will drop down.


The lower one came off easily with a 7/16" socket, but I can't seem to find a proper angle to reach the smaller upper one. Is there a secret here? Do I remove some of the other linkages to gain better access?

Yellow circle is the bolt that I can't seem to reach.
The red circle are the clips that I can't seem to detach... do those four fingers need to be pried apart, squeezed together? I assume there is some kind of slot in the linkage that they are all locking into. Does the entire black portion come out from the lever, or does that stay intact and I just remove the rod portion?





Any help would be appreciated.


-G

[Yeller]

The little plastic grommet/retaining clips are a pain and often fail when removed. Fortunately they are cheap and typically available in the “help” section at most parts stores. There is no real magic to releasing them other than careful brute force, you don’t want to bend any of them.

The bolts just need loosened and then can be pushed off. Once they are off you can open them up a bit so they go back on easier. They can be a pain to get loose and tightened back up, especially on a FSJ, there isn’t much room

[Greg72]

The little plastic grommet/retaining clips are a pain and often fail when removed. Fortunately they are cheap and typically available in the “help” section at most parts stores. There is no real magic to releasing them other than careful brute force, you don’t want to bend any of them.

The bolts just need loosened and then can be pushed off. Once they are off you can open them up a bit so they go back on easier. They can be a pain to get loose and tightened back up, especially on a FSJ, there isn’t much room

Thanks Yeller!

The upper clamp was the craziest one... I ended up coming at it from way back along the framerail with a swivel socket and about 24" worth of ratchet extensions but finally was able to get it.

Fixed the missing detent ball/spring with a bullet-style version from TransGo. The column shifter FINALLY has the "notch" feel between gears and stay where I put it now. Also changed the blown bulb (#74 size BTW) that illuminates the PRNDL indicator so now I can read that at night as well....

It was a hard-fought battle today, but it feels good to have ultimately succeeded. Never messed with a valvebody before.

-G

[rocklaurence]

Also, regarding the TF727 valve body, Ive run the shift kits in several and will say, that the towing version is crap! If you want to notice any change in the performance and shifting of the 727, install the Race or performance version [levels 1,2,3 are all parts of the same kit].

[Greg72]

I had more modest goals...

Remove these impossible bolts....




Find the "smoking gun" for my non-existent detents in the steering column...




Install the "bullet style" detent ball to utilize more of the bore and make it virtually impossible for it to fall out again...




End result: Works slick and has a nice firm click and solid differentiation between gears now.





-G

[letank]

Very good infos, thank you.

a bit late, I was wondering if you had moved the TV linkage forward or backward, would have it been easier to reach the impossible bolt or nut? Disconnecting the linkage at the carb, and using the TV rod spring to hold the TV linkage one way or the other.

Thinking about how I did it... I had the top access panel removed....

tranyShiftFsjBro2016.jpg

[Greg72]

That upper rod (TV cable?) had some movement available, but I was working from underneath and there always seemed to be something in the way of my wrench or arms and I never seemed to have the right angle to get the socket up there. Using the LOOOONG socket extension worked for me and I really wanted to turn that upper bolt around the opposite way when I re-installed it so that the square nut was on the back side (like the one below it) since access from the front side closest to the engine is SO much easier. Unfortunately that other bolt sticking out from the transmission (clutch band adjuster?) blocks the bolt head access too.

I'm glad it's over. That was one of the more unpleasant things I've had to do so far...

Next fix is the sloppy tilt-steering column. I have watched the BJs Offroad video about 5 times already to get psyched up for it, but it looks pretty involved and requires getting awfully deep into the column just to get some blue LocTite on those 4 troublesome bolts!!!


-G

[rocklaurence]

Where did you get the bullet indent? That's a cool fix for sure. Regarding the tilt steering, make sure you have the Lisle tool for removing the tilt pins. I wasnt able to fix it until I got the Special tool. Im presently looking at modifying a spare tilt column to allow more tilt-up. I added Master Craft seats this year and I need more room above my thighs to exit the truck.

[Greg72]

Hey RockLaurence!

Happy to help in some small way around here... don't know much yet, but I'm knocking out small projects and learning more all the time.

Here's the link to what I used:

https://transgo.com/product-details/tf-detent/




It was suggested to me from a pro transmission builder that I trust and it worked like a champ.


-G