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Anyone have an idea on what the total cost is for a junkard tbi set up. Complete, total cost to get it driving down the road. I know this isn't going to be an exact number but looking for a ball park number. Having carb issues again.
89 GW- Rebuilt 360 w RV camshaft, 4 inch Rustys spring lift, 1" body lift, dana 44HD front, 14 bolt rear 3.73's.
78 Cherokee Chief- work in progress
x2 prices vary, and you *should* buy some new parts.
My '90 is running all used junkyard sensors w/ exception of coolant sensor($15).
I spent $110 for a complete harness/tbi setup from a '91? Chevy van
Parts I bought new;
VSS - (jagsthatrun) $85
Fuel pump and filter $30?
O2 sensor $25?
16" metal TBI fuel lines (Dorman) $15/ea.?
4 slot fuseblock - 4wheelparts $8
Some new rubber fuel hose & bunch of FI rated hose clamps $?
Of course I didn't stop there, and changed it out to a 7427 w/ MAF...but that didn't cost much $50? maybe.
I also have probably $300+ in tuning equipment, chip burner, emulator, wide band sensor/gauge, chips, sockets, ALDL cables, etc.
Even with all that WAY below the $1400 price tag of a new Howell/AFI/etc. system.
Adapter plate for the throttle body, weld on O2 bung, electric fuel pump, replacement rubber fuel lines unless your old ones look good even after 30 years, fuel pump block off plate for factory pump? ebay prices for all those parts are near the high end of the u-pull it prices listed.
If you are deleting emissions, do you still need to bring over the GM diverter valve and charcoal canister? Do you actually need the VSS for anything? It's in a write-up over on IFSJA, and I can't think of any reason the computer would need it with no gauges, tranny or cruise to run.
A good source for fuse/relay boxes is the junkyard. Pull them from 90s ford trucks and SUVs. You'll get a nice little box with space for a 5 or 6 common relays, and a dozen fuses.
Fuel pump should be new, dont trust a used one. Airtex E2000 is what I run on both of mine and they are right at $100 for the pump. I use Fram clear fuel filters in front of the pump and it has done great for 80K miles. The bad part about using the GW fuel tank is that when mine gets below 1/4 tank, the slosh at stop signs makes it act like its out of fuel. The J-20 dont do it.
I've got close to $500 into mine, not including my time. That's JTR speed sensor, new 4-wire HO2, new cable from Bill, TunerPro, junkyard TBI/harness/PCM/MAP, new ECT, new fuel pump, adaptors, fuel lines, blahblahblah...
If someone were to ask me I'd say $500 is a good ballpark if you do it all yourself.
1977 Cherokee Chief WT w/ 2" lift
360 (originally a 401)/TH400/QT w/ MM part-time
16197427 $OD junkyard TBI set-up
$300 is likely the floor for how little it can cost. Will Marsh converted his Travelall for about that http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... hp?t=53524 but he used a Megasquirt computer and not the GM ECM. Prices for the Megasquirt kits have gone up since his article was published, and he uses a different throttle body from the popular GM part.
I kinda think the word has been out for quite a while about the GM TBI parts - I was able to get a throttle body from a Chevy wagon only because the car had just that morning come on to the pick-a-part yard. I was also able to get a throttle body from an Astro Van on eBay for pretty cheap, but those are less sought after than the V8 TBs.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS/PDB, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination A/Ts, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
Dual Everything: '15 Chryco Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk, ECO Green
Blockchain the vote.
I'm in about $500-$550 right now. I did get some new things. Got a new wiring harness from a shop in Cali with some new connectors and new fuel pump relay. Used Throttle body and injectors. New Fuel pump and filter. Used MAP but new coolant and 02 sensors. ECM was used out of a '90 or '91 GMC truck. I'm in the "put it all back together" stage right now after swapping out the manifold and other fun stuff. I'm not very experienced or talented with mechanical stuff and i was able to get the system working OK. Lots of time and forum reading though. The price of the Howell is steep, you pay for having the parts all be new, the ECM tuned, the wiring harness as simple as possible, etc. Probably can put in a Howell in a couple hours? Hardest part is trimming the old fuel lines and putting in the pump. After that its just plug and play. If time is a factor and/or it is for your dd might want to weight the time/money aspect. If not, dive in. It's not THAT complicated and there is lots of help.
"Wait, what's on fire!?" KJ7TCT
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1976 Cherokee w/t 'Susan' 401/TH400/QT(PT)
FiTech Go EFI, Edelbrock Performer intake
3" Rough Country Springs, HEI Dizzy
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2018 Cherokee Trailhawk V6 'Sedna'
sgtpoliteness wrote:I've got close to $500 into mine, not including my time. That's JTR speed sensor, new 4-wire HO2, new cable from Bill, TunerPro, junkyard TBI/harness/PCM/MAP, new ECT, new fuel pump, adaptors, fuel lines, blahblahblah...
If someone were to ask me I'd say $500 is a good ballpark if you do it all yourself.
Thanks sgtpoliteness, exactly what I was looking for. Way better than 1200-1500. Research I don't have a problem with, that I can do
89 GW- Rebuilt 360 w RV camshaft, 4 inch Rustys spring lift, 1" body lift, dana 44HD front, 14 bolt rear 3.73's.
78 Cherokee Chief- work in progress