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Has anyone done one or seen it done and know it can be fit around the motor?? Im gonna be building 4 links front and rear this winter... i know i can get the rear right but would love to do the same up front... engine clearance is always the issue... thanks!

I keep looking at mine. I think it would require some serious bending to get around everything. I am not sure I need the front linked, though. My plan is to link the rear and try it out for awhile... if oil price ever recovers, that is.

What are you going to do with the steering, when it is double triangulated?

I should post pics... but there is a guy here in Colorado running a 3 link with track bar on the front of his J10 on 40's and a D60. Runs and works good.

I dunno why you would want double triangulated??

With double triangulated, you don't need a trac bar, which sometimes can be hard to position itself.

Blake wrote:I should post pics... but there is a guy here in Colorado running a 3 link with track bar on the front of his J10 on 40's and a D60. Runs and works good.

I dunno why you would want double triangulated??

I passed it once. Too much traffic to turn around and catch him. Would love to see pics.

I would just run hydraulic steering on mine. Wyoming doesn't inspect but, I would trailer it if going out of town. Stopping has never been a problem, though; thankfully.

I love the idea of 4-linking but, it seems like a whole lot of work for little gain on these trucks. The more I think about it and look at my truck, the more I think that just 4-linking the rear and staying with the SOA front D60 will be plenty for anything I will ever tackle in it.

A triangulated front suspension with cross-over steering leads to Bump-steer. As the suspension travels the steering link doesn't move in the same axis [or in sync] and the front wheels will pull to the Left when the suspension drops and Right when it compresses. The greater the ravel the more severe the bump-steer. I believe the member here that is running the triangulated front suspension and says that his has minimal BS.

I'm running hyrdo assist and don't think I would have bump steer. I'm really thinking about getting one of those ruffstuff kits, grabbing some fox 3" coil overs and building mine up. I keep breaking front leaves and that is getting pricy.

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Bump steer has nothing to do with what assist you have. When the suspension compresses the distance between the pitman arm and the attachment point of the drag link decreases. The length of the link does not so it steers right and vicey versy.

A dropped pitman arm will help.

It happens with leaves too if there's no track arm so I wouldn't make my decision based on bump steer.

SJTD wrote:Bump steer has nothing to do with what assist you have. When the suspension compresses the distance between the pitman arm and the attachment point of the drag link decreases. The length of the link does not so it steers right and vicey versy.

A dropped pitman arm will help.

It happens with leaves too if there's no track arm so I wouldn't make my decision based on bump steer.

Yes, the ideal setup is to have the pit-man arm tie-rod [steering link] length and angle to match the track link. So, that as the suspension travels the axle is pulled left and right at the same rate that the steering link would be. note: the different axis that I was referring to are the up/down axis of the axle vs the axis of the steering link. They are at right angles to each other and definitely affect steering.

rocklaurence wrote:A triangulated front suspension with cross-over steering leads to Bump-steer. As the suspension travels the steering link doesn't move in the same axis [or in sync] and the front wheels will pull to the Left when the suspension drops and Right when it compresses. The greater the ravel the more severe the bump-steer. I believe the member here that is running the triangulated front suspension and says that his has minimal BS.

100% correct. Which leads to my question posted above.

I built a 4 Link front coilover suspension on my J200. It works beautifully with zero bump steer. The reason is that the drag link is parallel with ground (almost). So under normal driving conditions, there is zero perceptible bump steer. I can let off the steering wheel at 50 mph on bumpy terrain with no movement.

If my drag link went up at an angle it could cause bump steer just like a leaf spring setup. And if you think about it, a 4 link is the same as a leaf spring suspension as far as suspension travel is concerned. They both move straight up and down.

I see the crank pulley being hit by the drag link coming off a dune.

Not even close. Maybe if I jump off a building.

Photo may be making it look closer, but for SnGs, crank your wheels hard right and hard left to see how it looks.

Yea, it's the photo angle. There's no possible way for it to hit up there. My passenger tire would have to be above my hood. And if that happens, I probably have bigger concerns.

I've done it but it's difficult. The lowers are my issue. Going from the outside of the tube you have to pull them to the inside of the frame if possible. I ended up putting them on the bottom of the frame. I split my uppers with the oil pan. Once again, not ideal but it works. The only other way is to put the mounts one the truss webbing after you beef the plate up.

This may sound crazy but I promise it can be done.

I would love to be able to go to coil over's front and rear. How is it coming along? I know I cant be the only one interested in how you do this. Post up some more pics.