Full Size Jeep Network

Hey guys,
I've been working on the axles over the last few weeks.
I've disassembled them for clean up, prep for regear, and cut the inner "C" from both sides.
Jerred and I stuck them back on yesterday with 6° positive caster.
I stuck the steering knuckles back on this evening, just to check clearances. I had to trim the front edges of the u bolt plates and shave some off of the driver side u bolts. It will now turn full right and left with no interference.

Maybe it sounds like a dumb question, but since I have never done this, before I weld the C's permanently, does it look right?
This is a Dana 60 front from a 93 Dodge W250 and we are running 37" militarys.

Positive caster is rotating the upper pivot toward the rear of the vehicle.



Passenger side C with 6° positive



Passenger side with steering knuckles



Driver side with 6° positive



Driver side with steering knuckle.

Let me know if any other pics are needed.

Thanks guys,
Dan

You want positive caster (top towards the back). However, as for the amount, this depends on tire size. I don't know the calculations off the top of my head though. I think there is a post on pirate about it.

I run 4.5 degrees on my JK with 33's.

The question is: What is the positive caster with the springs loaded...aka Sitting on the ground?

It looks like the full weight of the vehicle is on the springs so you are getting a true measurement. Anywhere in the 4 - 6 degree range is good. Personally, I am at 0 degrees and have not noticed any ill effects, but im not recommending that.

Since your doing the Complete Shabang! Set your pinion at the best drive shaft angle then weld the "C"s like your doing. I normally shoot for 8^ positive.
So, tell us. How hard was it to cut the welds on the "C"s?

Thanks for the replies fellas.
Yes, the caster was set with the full weight on the springs. Both front and rear axles were put on identical jack stands and were set with at the same height/ number of exposed adjusters. We even gave a few jounce to set the springs.

As far as the process, personally I didn't think it was horrible. However I went in with the mindset that it would not be a cakewalk and that I was not in a hurry. I also wanted to use as little physical effort as I could.
When you search on turning C's, many posts involve heat and "a big FAWKIN HAHMMER" and writer would beat the snot out of them.
I tore the tendons in my right arm about a year ago and it took several months to heal. I did not want to go through that again.

Cutting and grinding the factory weld on the back side of the C wasn't bad. I used my cut off wheel on the "root" cut, or the vertical cut at the back edge of the C. The rest of the weld was taken down to the tube with my 4 1/2" electric grinder. I took my time doing this and there was minimal damage.
The driver side went a little quicker because I cut into the back of the C with my grinder and finished with a 1/4" carbide die bit. The passenger side I was only able to use the die grinder because the C is so close to the housing.
Each side took me maybe about 2 hours, again I was taking my time and was in no hurry.
After getting them off, I really wonder if cutting into the C is really needed. I know what I want to say to back up that thought, but I'm having a hard time describing it. Maybe I have a pic that will help.

Now, since I didn't want to go all "HULK SMASH!" to turn, we used our hydraulic press and removed both Cs.
We set everything up, and Jerred worked the press handle. I had read a thread on Pirate where a guy used an air hammer to cause the pressurized C to shock loose. We tried doing that for a few minutes but it didn't work.
I got out the torch with the rosebud tip and applied heat completely around the C base for maybe 2-3 minutes getting it hot but not causing any color. Jerred again ran the press and I just kept a constant taping on the flat spot. It started poping and would jump a bit as it moved. This took maybe 20 minutes, we did have to make an adjustment 3/4 way through to increase our jack depth.
The second side took 4 minutes.

I'll try to get some pics loaded this evening and will post the same info in my build thread once I'm ready to update.
Dan

Sounds like you are doing it right.

Good Job

I could just be me but the rear pics look like negative caster (top tilted toward the front)

Hopefully it's just you!
Both were rolled with top of the C toward the back of the Waggy.
I burned them in last Friday, spent all weekend with my small blast pot cleaning the axles and parts off, primed with epoxy primer Monday, and painted with urethane today.
Dan

For reference, looking at this picture, wouldn't the front of the vehicle be to the right and the u-bolts be 90 degrees vertical?

If i am following you right on orientation, the above pic is of the driver side.
Left of the axle is the front, toward the grill. Right of the axle is to the tailgate.

You can see a bit of the diff housing below the spring on the right.

Are the axle tubes constant diameter out to the ends? For some reason I thought they were reduced at the ends.

Yes, they are the same diameter the total length of each tube, I am measuring 3-1/8" OD, 2-1/8" ID and 1/2" wall thickness.
These were originally from a 93 Dodge W250.
Dan

Mustang Shooter wrote:If i am following you right on orientation, the above pic is of the driver side.
Left of the axle is the front, toward the grill. Right of the axle is to the tailgate.

you're good. I'll put the crack pipe down now.

Cut and turn was the single best thing I have done to my Jeep after SOA/SF'ing it.

Got any pics of how the Jack worked? Gonna be tackling this project soon.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Here are a few pics hutcho, hope this is what you were wanting to see.






We started by removing the feet off of the legs of the press.
We laid it on its side, setting it on 4 two ton jack stands.
The press table was also removed once it was on its side. This was done because the table is welded together and the gap is not wide enough to get the C to fit through.
We clamped the table pins into position leaving about the same amount exposed.
Two sections of 4x4x3/16 square tubing were strapped together. We did use a jack on both ends of the bottom tube. It was easier to apply the ratchet straps with the lower supported.







I took a measurement of the initial gap between the axle tube end and the press foot and built a press rod.
I had some 3"OD x 3/16 wall drill stem (pipe) and cut three 3/16" thick 3" diameter plates welding two on one end. This was to give a little more resistance to the pressure being applied by the press foot.
The other end had the late plate welded on, this one went against the axle tube.




These cast flat spot on the side of the C is where I tapped with the hammer. Let me emphasise it was not a hit, it was a tap. I didn't raise the hammer head any higher than 10 or 12 inches. I figure it was 1 tap per second.
Like I said in a previous post, we heated around the lower portion of the C, applied hydraulic pressure and tapped with the hammer.
You will be able to press for maybe 2" or 2 1/2" with the press on its side. You will know when it is not pushing any more. Back it off and add more solid shim between the press foot and spacer and continue to press.

Once you have the C removed, make sure you keep them marked, tagged or set so you can reinstall on the same side you removed them from.

Dan