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I'm creeping up on the mystery regarding oil pressure issues that plague the early AMC 360. I need to get some feedback on the best location for an old school brass fitting and hard line at the block, to connect a metal line up to a new mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the Chief. I'm not too familiar with the AMC engines and was hoping you guys with AMC engine savvy could offer some suggestions on where the best oil port that will give an accurate oil pressure reading might be?
I have the factory 1979 heads and an Edelbrock 2131 manifold on there.
Thanks for your help.
Fast
1979 Cherokee Chief S, V8, MSD Pro Billet Distributor with New Factory Ignition Box (are these 2 even supposed to work together?), HEI Wires, Edelbrock 1406, Edelbrock Performer manifold, 3.54 gears, Tru-Trac Locker in the rear, Turbo 400, New Quadratrac, Dual gas tanks, new 32 x 11.50's, Big 9000 winch, Homemade 2.5" full length exhaust, Custom Headlight Harness, Custom front bumper working, Custom Rear Swing-out Bumper, Class V receiver hitch ... and a lot of work to do yet.
I tee’d mine into the port the electric sender is in, on the passenger side of the block behind the oil pump. Ran the line along the frame and into the cab under the heater core.
k.
89 Wagon, SOA, 35's...
IFSJA join date - July 5th, 2000
Originally Posted by JeepinPete
-If it wasn't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all-
Fast79Chief wrote: ↑Tue Dec 14, 2021 4:40 pm
I need to get some feedback on the best location for an old school brass fitting and hard line at the block, to connect a metal line up to a new mechanical oil pressure gauge
I have the factory 1979 heads and an Edelbrock 2131 manifold on there.
Thanks for your help.
Fast
I would not recommend connecting a hard line to the engine. Movement/Vibration relative to the body where the line attaches will likely cause a stress crack to develop in the line. I suggest using a hi pressure hydraulic hose. I have been using this combination for over ten years on my daily driven J20 without any issues.
I used to name my FSJ’s after their previous owners, I realized I had too many with five named Rick.
threepiece,
would you mind sharing a picture and/or description of the line you are talking about? The company that makes it and if it is meant for automotive pressurized hot oil use?
I can only imagine the cost if it is something like Russel braided steel brake line like I use on my bike builds. Mucho denerro!!!
Thanks.
1979 Cherokee Chief S, V8, MSD Pro Billet Distributor with New Factory Ignition Box (are these 2 even supposed to work together?), HEI Wires, Edelbrock 1406, Edelbrock Performer manifold, 3.54 gears, Tru-Trac Locker in the rear, Turbo 400, New Quadratrac, Dual gas tanks, new 32 x 11.50's, Big 9000 winch, Homemade 2.5" full length exhaust, Custom Headlight Harness, Custom front bumper working, Custom Rear Swing-out Bumper, Class V receiver hitch ... and a lot of work to do yet.
Fast79Chief wrote: ↑Tue Dec 14, 2021 4:40 pm
I need to get some feedback on the best location for an old school brass fitting and hard line at the block, to connect a metal line up to a new mechanical oil pressure gauge
I have the factory 1979 heads and an Edelbrock 2131 manifold on there.
Thanks for your help.
Fast
I would not recommend connecting a hard line to the engine. Movement/Vibration relative to the body where the line attaches will likely cause a stress crack to develop in the line. I suggest using a hi pressure hydraulic hose. I have been using this combination for over ten years on my daily driven J20 without any issues.
I'd like to see what kind of 'hose' you used too.
Thanks
I use a product similar to this, stainless steel braided, teflon lined hydraulic hose, I have a local supplier custom make them but this is the same stuff. it also available in typical jacketed hydraulic hose. Very durable stuff. The jacketed hydraulic hose is more heat resistant.
You can get a device that will prevent filling the cab with oil should the line break. It'a a piston or diaphragm that separates the oil from the line to the gauge which still is full of a fluid but if it fails you get a few drops rather than a constant flow. I think you can use alcohol which won't make a mess.
No big hydraulic line needed.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
I love mechanical gauges, but sure have rebuilt a LOT of engines due to line failure where the oil got pumped out on the highway, fortunately none of them mine but..... So I'm a little overzealous about overkill on the lines.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
I added a mechanical guage, made the connection replacing he OEM SWT on the adapter mount.
Used rubber vacuum tube as a sheath for it, all the way to the firewall to prevent the metal to metal wearing thru ..
Some ppl will add a 360 degree "Loop" in the copper line, near connection there to help with vibration issues, though Not essential.
And I also ty-wrap line near conn point to help support, making it rigid.
Quite reliable and durable overall if setup right first time installed.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.