I don't have to read about it ... I actually drive it. Lunchbox unit. Works great.
That's not how a QT works. Viscous coupler systems can work this way. But the QT is not able to distribute power that way. If the rear loses traction completely, you will still get some power to the front, but not a full 50%.9.3x62 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 28, 2022 9:15 pm Yeah, to my mind, in a normal 4x4, it's 50/50 to both axles, so if one end busts loose on the slick stuff, there's no differntiation and that end just keeps swinging until it don't. But the QT is a limited slip, so if the rear with the locker busts loose, it sends the power to the front, stopping the slide. Of course, if there were no locker in the first place the slide wouldn't have happened at all.
Does my rambling make any sense???
That's all great sierrablue, my research shows that the engineers at AMC, DANA, BorgWarner seemed to thing it's Ok to have a Trac-Loc in the rear, coupled with a 1339 and a Turbo 400. How or where somebody drives with all that gear is really up to the individual owner. We can't make blanket statements that say "this is no good in snow". I can drive a motorcycle in snow and have many times. It's really up to the driver skills to keep their vehicle on the road or not.sierrablue wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 12:21 pm I would think for snow specifically (especially if you want to drive it normally and have no clicking on turns), a limited slip would be the way to go. Still allows some slip, which can be helpful on the hard packed (also I would like to point out that if you want any chance of getting moving on the hard packed, you need some traction control for the diffs), yet still not letting you get stuck on the trails and stuff.
For deep snow I wouldn't worry too much about the open diffs. Unless it's packed, and/or you're ok with taking on some pretty serious body damage from the snow, you're not gonna get it stuck unless your tires are bald. I've put the stock height, 225/75r15 (and the absolute worst rated modern all season tires for snow), open diff '71 through drifts that are well over 2' deep, pushing 3'. Only time I want lockers/limited slip, really, is on the ice/piles of hard packed snow. I realize that's with the D20, but still.
This is false. You were only able to buy an 73-79 FSJ with a Trac-Lok limited slip when a manual transmission was equipped.OldFarmTruck22 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 11:33 amThat's all great sierrablue, my research shows that the engineers at AMC, DANA, BorgWarner seemed to thing it's Ok to have a Trac-Loc in the rear, coupled with a 1339 and a Turbo 400sierrablue wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 12:21 pm I would think for snow specifically (especially if you want to drive it normally and have no clicking on turns), a limited slip would be the way to go. Still allows some slip, which can be helpful on the hard packed (also I would like to point out that if you want any chance of getting moving on the hard packed, you need some traction control for the diffs), yet still not letting you get stuck on the trails and stuff.
For deep snow I wouldn't worry too much about the open diffs. Unless it's packed, and/or you're ok with taking on some pretty serious body damage from the snow, you're not gonna get it stuck unless your tires are bald. I've put the stock height, 225/75r15 (and the absolute worst rated modern all season tires for snow), open diff '71 through drifts that are well over 2' deep, pushing 3'. Only time I want lockers/limited slip, really, is on the ice/piles of hard packed snow. I realize that's with the D20, but still.
As my parents like to tell me: "Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD."OldFarmTruck22 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 11:33 amThat's all great sierrablue, my research shows that the engineers at AMC, DANA, BorgWarner seemed to thing it's Ok to have a Trac-Loc in the rear, coupled with a 1339 and a Turbo 400. How or where somebody drives with all that gear is really up to the individual owner. We can't make blanket statements that say "this is no good in snow". I can drive a motorcycle in snow and have many times. It's really up to the driver skills to keep their vehicle on the road or not.sierrablue wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 12:21 pm I would think for snow specifically (especially if you want to drive it normally and have no clicking on turns), a limited slip would be the way to go. Still allows some slip, which can be helpful on the hard packed (also I would like to point out that if you want any chance of getting moving on the hard packed, you need some traction control for the diffs), yet still not letting you get stuck on the trails and stuff.
For deep snow I wouldn't worry too much about the open diffs. Unless it's packed, and/or you're ok with taking on some pretty serious body damage from the snow, you're not gonna get it stuck unless your tires are bald. I've put the stock height, 225/75r15 (and the absolute worst rated modern all season tires for snow), open diff '71 through drifts that are well over 2' deep, pushing 3'. Only time I want lockers/limited slip, really, is on the ice/piles of hard packed snow. I realize that's with the D20, but still.
You think I should remove my transfer case or my Trac-loc? It's been working fine for 44 years but if it's a 'mistake' from the factory, I had better sell it.sierrablue wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 12:55 pmAs my parents like to tell me: "Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD."OldFarmTruck22 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 27, 2023 11:33 amThat's all great sierrablue, my research shows that the engineers at AMC, DANA, BorgWarner seemed to thing it's Ok to have a Trac-Loc in the rear, coupled with a 1339 and a Turbo 400. How or where somebody drives with all that gear is really up to the individual owner. We can't make blanket statements that say "this is no good in snow". I can drive a motorcycle in snow and have many times. It's really up to the driver skills to keep their vehicle on the road or not.sierrablue wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 12:21 pm I would think for snow specifically (especially if you want to drive it normally and have no clicking on turns), a limited slip would be the way to go. Still allows some slip, which can be helpful on the hard packed (also I would like to point out that if you want any chance of getting moving on the hard packed, you need some traction control for the diffs), yet still not letting you get stuck on the trails and stuff.
For deep snow I wouldn't worry too much about the open diffs. Unless it's packed, and/or you're ok with taking on some pretty serious body damage from the snow, you're not gonna get it stuck unless your tires are bald. I've put the stock height, 225/75r15 (and the absolute worst rated modern all season tires for snow), open diff '71 through drifts that are well over 2' deep, pushing 3'. Only time I want lockers/limited slip, really, is on the ice/piles of hard packed snow. I realize that's with the D20, but still.
Also these are the same engineers who were still running drum brakes in the back, and in order to make their engines run "cleaner" they basically detuned them so they'd make less power and thus use less gas. I'm not saying they were stupid by any means but I am saying that they didn't always know what the best way to do things was, and if they knew, they didn't bother with it. And the Qtrac isn't exactly known for being long lasting; in their mind, if that's going to give out first, what difference does it make whether or not you put the locker/limited slip in the back?
And you can make blanket statements saying "This is no good in the snow" (which, rereading my post, I did not actually do). Sometimes it might depend on the kind of snow, but if for instance you said that 2 wheel drive is no good in the snow, I don't know anybody that would argue with you.
Note: I'm not trying to be aggressive or mean here, so please do not take this as an attack. More of a debate. And NOT in the 2020 presidential election sense of the term.