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Snow isn't really that big a problem problem. It's the salt the rust belt uses which is why I call it the rust belt. I don't think AZ salts the roads? Though people getting in with snow on their shoes so the carpet stays wet is always a problem.
A salvage title isn't necessarily a problem, I've had several. To me a clean title meamns one in the sellers name with current registration. Though you might have trouble getting anything other than liability insurance.
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
SJTD wrote: ↑Thu Sep 16, 2021 12:12 pm
Though you might have trouble getting anything other than liability insurance.
Don't know why, you can get whatever you want for a kit car that was built with salvage parts with a much higher risk of having issues. I know my pieced together, hand built truck I can get basically whatever I'm willing to pay for.
The bus I ride is so short it is a yellow Smart Car full of squirrels, monkeys and clowns.
It's been a while. At this point I've moved to Moab Utah and brought the jeep with me.
In the past 8 months I've replaced the motor and Transmission (stock swap), added seats from a late 80s suburban, and put it up on some Falken 35s. Fixing some of the wiring has been an absolute nightmare.
mwray8909 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 08, 2023 9:18 pm
It's been a while. At this point I've moved to Moab Utah and brought the jeep with me.
In the past 8 months I've replaced the motor and Transmission (stock swap), added seats from a late 80s suburban, and put it up on some Falken 35s. Fixing some of the wiring has been an absolute nightmare.
good to know, too bad about your electrical issues, some of us would have loved to visit and trade electrical debugging for behind the scene Moab adventures. Castle valley loop and TOW are really nice rides, especially on 2 wheels.
Michel
74 wag (349 Kmiles... parked, next step is a rust free body)
85 Gwag (229 Kmiles... the running test lab)
it looks to be a good buy, im in my 4th year of restoring my daughters cherokee, ive had every component off and reworked or checked, 1 area of concern i would check is the drivers side frame rail,the reason being is the fuel tank nessles up in that frame channel and when i dropped the fuel tank on mine ( fuel leak), the rollover check valves were bad, that frame rail was packed with dirt, the fuel hard lined and the r/r parking brake cable also runs in that channel, if the parking brake doesent work , it will be that cable that needs to be replaced.another place to check is the rear window wiring harnass, it goes thru the body into the tail gate, you brobably cant check that as the window has to be retracted to lower the tailgate. you concern about the a/c i flushed my system, replaced the hoses, removed the compressor drained the oil ,reserviced the compressor(york), charged with 134, it runs like a champ, if you want more details send me an email ive had every part of this fsj apart
Replaced a small 30amp circuit breaker under the dash. Now front windows work and the the fog lights work.
Removed the coffin tank (Cracked) and the mud filled skid plate. Thankfully I have the she Aux tank in the spare tire location. Some how I still have a hitch with the second gas tank.
Question - have any of yall checked exhaust Temps at the cylinder heads? Cylinder 7 is cooler than the rest bit it has fuel, spark and air....
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It has again been a while since my last update. Parts are enroute for the TFI upgrade as it has a weird stumble.
I want to try a 2 in lift block out back and a 1 inch 1shackle lift for the front for better clearance. Had to order a Power steering line since it has a pin hole that pissed fluid all over. I have the SOA SF kit on hand if needed. But I want as little as possible for the 35s on a wide track. Currently have about 3/4 inch of clearance with 35s and wide track fenders